Hidden Gems

When it comes to skin care ingredients, clients are asking more and more questions that contain the latest buzzwords, like vegan, natural, organic, and zero-irritation. This interest is a sign that conscious consumerism and clean beauty are impacting the industry in a big way. In fact, according to Statista, an international data tracker, the global natural and organic beauty market is expected to reach $22 billion by 2024, almost double its value in 2016, with skin care holding the largest share of the market. 

Narrowing the focus onto the United States, according to a 2021 survey, about 46% of participants belonging to Generation Z and 45% of Millennials were interested in trying clean beauty products, or products that do not contain toxins or toxic ingredients. 

Now is the ideal time to become more aware of lesser-known, innovative, and effective ingredients for clients who want alternatives that are not mainstream or the norm. These under-the-radar choices can put a special spin on determining which products are most beneficial for exfoliating, hydrating, brightening, fighting blemishes, targeting signs of aging, and more. 

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Janel LuuFounder and CEO of Le Mieux Cosmetics and PurErb Herbology-based Skincare & Aromatherapy, Janel Luu has over 35 years of experience in the beauty industry as an educator, researcher, and formulator. She has taught over 37,000 skin care professionals and physicians on topics ranging from antiaging cellular technology to centuries-old Meridian techniques. 

Plastic Perceptions

In the plastic surgery field, mommy makeovers have become increasingly popular in recent years. Designed to address common issues and body changes experienced after pregnancy and breastfeeding, many women consider these specialized combinations of plastic surgery techniques to help improve curves and contour.  

Since breastfeeding and pregnancy usually take the biggest toll on the breast and abdomen, these areas are the ones that are most commonly addressed. Breast enhancement can take the form of breast augmentation, breast lift (mastopexy), or both. The tummy tuck (abdominoplasty) is often combined with liposuction of the hips and other areas. Each surgery is tailored to the individual, depending on the areas of most concern. 

Aside from aesthetic and physical changes, a mommy makeover offers a wealth of other benefits for clients. From positively impacting sex drive to improving mental health, cosmetic reconstruction can help boost confidence and self-esteem and even correct medical conditions like diastasis recti.1 

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Dr. Andy Wongworawat is a renowned board-certified plastic surgeon and co-founder of the award-winning, Southern California-based Advanced Institute for Plastic Surgery (AIPS). His primary surgical focus is on breast and body surgery, particularly mommy makeovers. He is passionate about solving issues deeper than the surgical blade and combines surgical excellence with holistic healing arts to help clients pioneer both physical and emotional change. He received his medical degree from Loma Linda University in 1999 and completed his plastic surgery residency in the acclaimed resident training program at Loma Linda University Medical Center, where he served as Chief Resident in Plastic Surgery. He is also a dignified member of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS) and the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS). 

In an industry that has many avenues in which all kinds of aestheticians can excel, finding one’s identity as a service provider and skin expert is the first step towards a long, lively career. Social media has made those avenues more easily accessible, but it has also created some prefab aesthetician personalities that are proven to gain the attention of the majority. It can be easy, and some might even say business savvy, for new skin care professionals to fall into these successful cookie cutter careers. Why try to reinvent the wheel?  

However, there are those individuals who cannot help but to sparkle and shine. Enter Iysha C. Wedderburn. An Arizona native, Wedderburn is a tri-state licensed aesthetician, owner of Sparkle N Sparkle Skincare, and one who is for standing out from the crowd. When the DERMASCOPE team first read her Cover Contest application, her personality leaped off the page and led us to her dynamic Instagram page, @ __sparklenshine.  

Self-proclaimed as “Yo Esti Aunti,” Wedderburn is a corrective skin care specialist with style. From her sassy photoshoots to her glowing client testimonies and stunning skin transformations, this year’s Cover Contest winner is a star in her own right. This issue’s cover simply solidifies that fact.  

 

What is the earliest memory you have of skin care, beauty, self-care, and so on?   

My first memory of skin care and beauty was when my mom was a representative for Mary Kay back in the 80s. She would have parties in the dining room and would always have me assist her with setting up the little trays and mirrors for her guests.  

 

Growing up, what line of work did you think you would end up in?  

My dream was to be a Dallas Cowboys cheerleader or a famous showgirl in Las Vegas – something in the entertainment industry. 

 

What is your greatest strength as a practicing aesthetician?  

My greatest strength is my skin consultations and skin analysis. I can literally look at someone’s skin and recommend products, diet changes, and prescribe an entire treatment plan without even touching the client.   

 

What is your greatest weakness?  

My greatest weakness is working on a day I promised to take off to accommodate a client. I am working on setting better boundaries with my time off. 

 

Whose career do you most admire or want to emulate?  

I would have to say former first lady, Michelle Obama’s aesthetician, JoElle Lee. She is so knowledgeable regarding all skin types and how to treat any client’s skin. My ultimate goal is to become a world-renowned educator, and JoElle Lee is an excellent one!  

 

What do you love about the aesthetician networks you are a part of?  

I love the support, collaborations, bonding time, and how we assist each other with navigating and balancing life as solo aestheticians. We discuss different skin care protocols and modalities as well as what is and is not working for our businesses. We meet up in different cities to mastermind and discuss everything about spa and skin. It is truly a sisterhood. 

 

What sets you apart as an award-winning aesthetician?  

I do what works and makes sense as far as corrective skin care. I do not follow fads or what is trending. My passion and dedication alone speak volumes about the results and education I provide for my clients and audience. People have always shared with me that they see my passion so strongly in what I do.  

 

How would you describe your clientele?  

I consider myself as the aesthetician to the executives. The majority of my clientele are business owners themselves or are in the public eye. My clients come to me because they are on a journey to healthy skin or need assistance with learning more about how to care for their skin. I also have a large teenage clientele in which I really enjoy boosting their confidence and self-esteem. It is rough being a teenager with acne in this new world of social media where everything appears perfect. I am a huge advocate for mental health and anti-bullying for my teenage clients. 

 

How has the increased interest in consumer skin care impacted your business?  

It has been a blessing to me! I am very familiar and knowledgeable with a wide range of skin care products, both professional and over the counter, so I can educate my clients and audience when it pertains to skin care education. It has also increased the virtual consultation side of my business.  

 

How did you choose your specialty?  

It took some time because I wanted to do everything in the beginning, from eyelashes to waxing to body contouring. The main service that put a smile on my heart was witnessing my clients build their self-esteem with each visit. This helped me realize corrective skin care and education was my passion.   

 

How did you choose your spa name?  

My spa name describes exactly who I am and what I do. We bring out the inner shine clients always had within. And I love anything bling, sparkly, shining, and clean. 

 

When did you start reading DERMASCOPE?  

I started reading DERMASCOPE back in 2016 when I attended my first tradeshow in New York, New York. There was a booth where I signed up for it, and I have been reading DERMASCOPE magazine ever since. DERMASCOPE provides so much education and resources. 

 

How do you give back to the industry?  

I believe in helping fellow aestheticians, so I go and speak to aesthetic students to answer questions and provide information on what to expect right after school. 

 

What do you think are the most recent, important advances in skin care?  

Important advances have been the awareness and education on the importance of wearing sunscreen no matter what ethnic background you are! I see my fellow aestheticians communicating this on their platforms now more than ever. 

 

What does it mean to you to be on the cover?  

This issue’s cover means that diversity is here and present. It means so much because I hope that my DERMASCOPE presence inspires someone to believe that anything is possible. I want everyone in the industry to know to never give up! Dream big! Do not knock on the doors of opportunities, kick them down. 

 

THE GOODS 

What skin care brands do you carry? I carry Lira Clinical and Skin Script Skin Care. 

What research did you conduct before choosing these two brands for your spa? I took several courses and classes to educate myself on the ingredients and study protocols for skin types. 

What space were you trying to fill in your practice when you decided to partner with Lira 

Clinical? I wanted to provide brighter, healthier, and younger skin care. I also appreciate science and nature’s approach to skin correction and health. 

How has Lira’s products and education impacted your business? They have provided me more revenue through product retailing.  

What are your favorite Lira products? My must-haves are the Mystiq Illuminating Beauty Oil and the Mystiq Illuminating Polisher. 

What do you love most about Skin Script’s support as a brand partner? Skin Script’s headquarters are down the street from where I live. I am always there picking up products or taking a class, and they are always so helpful when I have questions. 

What kind of results have you achieved using Skin Script’s products? I definitely have witnessed many clients’ skin transformations with their chemical peels and the homecare kits for maintenance. 

What Skin Script products have stood out to you the most? The Lemon Zest Enzyme! It gives visible results after the first treatment, and my clients love the smell.  

 

Iysha C. Wedderburn is proof that success does not have to be the result of perfectly executed formula. She is unapologetically herself and would not have it any other way. From her authenticity to the passion she funnels into her care, the Cover Contest is richer having had her participate.  

 

Being aware of what can affect skin will help skin care professionals determine why a client may be experiencing skin challenges. Often, skin conditions are due to more than just one influence. It is important that the professional is able to evaluate and identify both external and internal factors to help improve or correct the skin condition. Allergies, reactions, medications, medical conditions, and other extrinsic factors as well as habits, diet, lifestyle, and stress can all be reflected in skin’s health and appearance. Additionally, lack of exercise and sleep, tobacco and vapor use, and drug use will also have negative effects both inside and out. Sun damage is the main extrinsic cause of aging. Primary conditions, such as acne, aging, and hyperpigmentation, are the main conditions that clients are seeking help for as well as sensitive or reactive skin, rosacea, eczema, hypertrichosis, and psoriasis as they continue to have lasting effects on clients.  

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Beatrice Van, an award-winning aesthetics master educator, is an enthusiastic, positive, self-starter with over 17 years of progressive experience in the beauty industry. In addition to her role as Clinical Master Aesthetics Educator at Spectrum Advanced Aesthetics, she is the clinical director for Fearless Beauties, a certified advanced aesthetician, makeup artist, and nail specialist. On her days off, she works at Indie Esthetics, helping her clients look and feel like the very best versions of themselves, or travels throughout North America as an education ambassador for CND and Fearless Beauties. Her passion is to empower both students and beauty professionals to boldly invest in their education and strengthen their skills while elevating standards in the industry. 


Beatrice Van

Thinking Green: Alternative Ingredients

Written by   Richard Martin

The plant is a symbol of life, and its healing properties are the key elements for growth and repair. The fountain of youth is before us all the time, and we fail to see it. Plant-based cosmetics are the key ingredients for most, if not all. As the microbiome is stripped away with harsh chemicals, a green alternative is the golden writing on the marble formulation table. 

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Richard MartinRichard Martin’s training started with construction, but he transitioned into the beauty and wellness industry after pursuing diplomas in drafting and building from Heriot University Scotland. After working in construction and wastewater management, he decided to get certified in massage and general beauty therapy. Later, Martin earned a post-graduate diploma in education and training with a specialization in sciences. Martin trained the first cohort of visually impaired massage therapists in this hemisphere and is the first male spa educator to be certified by the America Hotel Lodging Institute as a Certified Hospitality Educator in Jamaica. The transition from hard skills to soft skills has made him much more dynamic. 

In a world of more is more, we often find ourselves presented with a kitchen-sinker approach to skin care routines, which can leave us scratching our heads as we stare down at our 14-step nighttime regimen scattered across the bathroom counter. Our wallets experienced the impact, sure, but will our skin? 

Make no mistake, there will always be a place for elaborate routines for those who desire them, but most consumers are left feeling confused by extensive, multi-step regimens. 

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Crystal King BoothBorn and raised in eastern Kentucky, Crystal King Booth moved to Lexington to attend the University of Kentucky after high school graduation in 2000. She has a Bachelor of Fine Arts but always had a love for skin care and makeup. She wanted to be an aesthetician since the age of 20 but did not have the opportunity to attend aesthetics school until she was 32. She opened the first Fizz Facial Bar location in June 2018 at the age of 35. Since that time, they have grown to five locations in two states and have begun franchising as well. 

Famous Formulations: Analyzing Celebrity Skin Care

Celebrity skin care lines have had quite the following lately, due, in large part, to social media. Social media lends a hand in allowing celebrities to connect with their fans like never before. Through this seamless connection, stars are able to give their followers an intimate look into their skin care routines and what products they are using. Regardless of whether they use their products on a regular basis or not, everyone sees beautiful, glowing skin. Let’s dive into a few of the most popular celebrity skincare lines and their ingredients.  

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Ashley DeckardAshley Deckard has been a licensed, practicing aesthetician in sunny Denver, Colorado since 2013. While gaining experience in the industry, she realized there was something special about holistic skin care treatments. Deckard’s love of working with the body’s natural intelligence to heal itself led her to working with CBD. Education is at the heart of what she does, and the last five years of her career have been dedicated to developing future industry professionals. Her passion lies in providing a space for individuals to unwind, renew, and tune in. In addition to her practice, Deckard is the Assistant Director of Education for Color Up CBD. 

Social Media Links November

READ the November 2022 Issue 

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READ the P&E Guide 2022 

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Vote for 2023 ACAs

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DERMASCOPE Seeks In-House Aestheticians 
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Webinar: Topical Live Probiotics

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Join AIA 
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The Aesthetic Report 

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Spa-tify: Hormonal Hums 

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2022 Monthly Columns 

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2022 Aestheticians’ Choice Awards WINNERS List 

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Got a Question: Ask an Expert 

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Internal Interruptions

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From the Inside Out

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Next Level

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DERMASCOPE.COM 

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Paying it Forward: The Concept of Our Future

The skin care industry is ever changing and growing by leaps and bounds. It took a huge hit during the pandemic, but it is back now. The last season of tradeshows proves that excitement and motivation. Increased demand for education, increased retail options, and increased attendance are a sign that most professionals are happily moving on from the last two years of uncertainty. However, with much sadness, they have lost some of their more seasoned and experienced professionals who retired, had to close their shops, or had to go into different fields,. Who will take their place and take the industry to the next level?  

The future of the skin care industry are aesthetic students. Everyone remembers their mentors, heroes, and people who helped, encouraged, coached, and motivated them to do and be better professionals. It is time to return the favor, and it is now professionals’ turn to give back. Many professionals have now become the seasoned group, the current top grossing and most successful, and it is time for them to pay it forward. 

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Starting Solo: Gearing Up for Growth

Operating a solo practice takes hard work, dedication, and consistency. Before expanding, there are several factors professionals should consider to see their vision through. One of the first signs to expand a business is lack of space. Most solo skin care professionals start their careers working in day spas, medical spas, and dermatologist offices. The more their business flourishes, the more space and team members of like-minded professionals they need to service their growing client base. Usually, the demand for different services and accommodations rises. 

Professionals love referrals, but adequate space is needed to accommodate a client base. For example, an expansion may include a beauty bar, VIP lounge, retail boutique area, additional treatment rooms, a storage room, and a break area for employees. Professionals may go from a 200-square-foot studio to a 1,900-square-foot unit. This allows space for all accommodations, including potential events and continuing education classes. The following key aspects will tell professionals if, when, and how they can expand smoothly into a new location and venture. 

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The Microneedling Glow Up

Microneedling just received an upgrade. Now available with radio frequency, this welcomes a new generation of skin and body care – a lift and sculpting which could not be achieved before without surgery.  

Generally called microneedling RF, this upgraded treatment is a client favorite and one of the most popular treatments around the world. This treatment is a safe and effective, minimally invasive modular radio frequency fractional procedure which targets deep layers of skin and tissue to remodel collagen on the face and body.   

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Globally Gorgeous: Continental Skin Care

If skin care professionals have ever wondered what secrets their global counterparts might be using (whether they have access to other products and they have been sharing centuries-old skin care tips), look no further.  Here is a glimpse into what skin care products and treatments are trending from around the world. 

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Raising Retail: Tapping Into Temporary Metallic Tattoos

There is only so much the experts in the beauty industry can do to compete with the rise in at-home DIY treatments. Everything from bleach hair kits to skin care is marketed towards the simplicity of doing it on one’s own. The results? They range from minimal effects to severely adverse skin and hair reactions to total disasters. Yet, people eat it up. They are amused by viral videos of people cutting their own bangs only to watch as their hair springs up with the surprise force of a jack-in-the-box. There are also women who concoct an at-home face mask made of natural ingredients that ultimately causes breakouts and adverse skin reactions. As a result, skin care experts are up against a lot. So, what can professionals do about safely satisfying a DIY nation’s cravings?  

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In the Family Way

While every pregnancy is unique, there are some common skin conditions and changes that pregnancy brings on. If professionals educate themselves on these skin concerns, they can provide safe relief for their clients in their time of need. 

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Dasha Saian MarcheseDasha Saian Marchese is the co-founder and CEO of Saian Natural Clinical Skincare and has over 22 years of experience in the spa industry. She is a licensed aesthetician, AIA Ambassador, and serves on the Editorial Advisory Board of DERMASCOPE Magazine. In addition to her aesthetics schooling, Saian Marchese has a degree in business and marketing. She gives lectures and classes internationally and regularly contributes to global trade publications.  

October 2024

Brands of the Month

  • DMK Skin Revision Center
  • Epionce
  • RapidLash Rocasuba, Inc.

Business

Under Construction: Choosing the Best Website Builder for a Skin Care Business 

Employee to Entrepreneur: Preparing for Success 

More Skills, More Clients 

Tips For Medical Spa Pros To Become Better Patient Advocates 

Beauty

Greenlighting Sustainability: Biotechnology & the Future of Sustainable Beauty

Lip Service: The Top 10 Lip Tips of 2023

In the Land of Lashes

Poreless Perfection: Glass Skin Makeup

Body

Light Work: Enhancing Outcomes & Growing Incomes with LED Light Therapy 

The Sun Never Sets  

The Brightside of Skin Health 

 A Guide to Body Brightening: Treatments & Ingredients