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It is no secret that vitamin C has numerous benefits and is a vital ingredient for skin health; however, with the constant stream of information we receive regarding skin care formulas, ingredients, and products, it’s time we revisit the virtues of this potent antioxidant and discuss its most effective forms.
A VITAL VITAMIN
Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin that is naturally present in some foods, added to others, and available as a dietary supplement. In fact, vitamin C is the most abundant antioxidant in human skin.1 Humans, unlike most animals, are unable to synthesize vitamin C endogenously, so it is an essential dietary component. Vitamin C is required for the biosynthesis of collagen, L-carnitine, certain neurotransmitters, and is involved in protein metabolism. Vitamin C is also an important physiological antioxidant and has been shown to regenerate other antioxidants within the body, including alpha tocopherol (vitamin E).2
Collagen is an essential component of connective tissue, which plays a vital role in wound healing. The antioxidant properties of vitamin C and its role in collagen synthesis make vitamin C a vital molecule for skin health. Normal skin contains high concentrations of vitamin C, which supports important and well-known functions, stimulating collagen synthesis and assisting in antioxidant protection against ultraviolet-induced photodamage.3
THE SCIENCE OF C
In a 2002, double-blind study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage, ten patients applied a newly formulated vitamin C complex. The complex, having 10% ascorbic acid (water soluble) and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (lipid soluble) in an anhydrous polysilicone gel base, was applied to half of the face and an inactive polysilicone gel base was applied to the opposite side. It was concluded that this formulation of vitamin C results in clinically visible and statistically significant improvement in wrinkling when used topically for 12 weeks. This clinical improvement correlates with biopsy evidence of new collagen formation.4
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Lila Castellanos has focused her energies into the beauty industry for the past 19 years, specializing in skin rejuvenation. As a licensed aesthetician, she has lent her expertise to working as a paramedical aesthetician in the medical spa field as well as in both day spa and mobile spa business models. It was through these varied experiences, along with the interactions with her loyal clientele, that she honed her passion for improving and maintaining the health and integrity of her clients’ skin. Castellanos thrives on being able to use her extensive knowledge to customize each treatment to help her clients achieve the results they are searching for, from antiaging facial and, treating acne to minimizing the appearance of scarring and addressing skin conditions that arise as a result of hormonal changes.
Clogged pores, congestion, and comedones, oh my! While these terms are often used interchangeably, these symptoms involve much more than an occasional breakout. These skin conditions need professional solutions to resolve textural inconsistencies, remove impurities, and restore a healthy, vibrant appearance.
ROOT CAUSE
Clogged pores are normally a result of the buildup of skin cells, oil, and dirt. This condition is most common in people with oily skin and can often lead to acne. While the face is the most common place for this condition to present, it can also appear on the scalp, chest, shoulder, and back. The cause of clogged pores can include dry skin or skin that produces extra skin cells, certain face products like lotions or cosmetics, medications that change how much oil glands produce, and oily skin due to age, hormones, or genetics.1
Sebum Production
The rate of sebum production among different individuals is highly variable, and the explanation as to the cause remains to be fully elucidated. Men in general have higher sebum output attributed to higher testosterone levels, although sebum production does increase during ovulation in women, likely secondary to increased progesterone. Sebum also varies according to one’s environment and the time of year. Several studies have described an increase in sebum production during the spring and summer and in more humid climates. In general, in terms of race, Chinese women display notably smaller pore size and lower density while Black individuals have enlarged pore size that can be attributed to higher rates of sebum output.2
Congestion can also appear as uneven texture with bumps under the surface, whiteheads or blackheads, and an overall dullness as dead skin cells, sweat, impurities, and excess sebum can result in a slower turnover rate. Certain skin types are prone to overactive sebaceous glands, and fluctuating hormones due to age or an imbalance can exacerbate the issue. Clogged pores and enlarged pores are not the same thing; however, they are often related.
Science is helping to lead advances in personal care products as more effective solutions with
greater efficacy are being developed by cosmetic companies and sought out by
practitioners and consumers alike. Nanotechnology, being recognized as one of the revolutionizing technologies, is extensively studied in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.1 Nanotechnology refers to the branch of science and engineering devoted to designing, producing, and using structures, devices, and systems by manipulating atoms and molecules at nanoscale – for example, having one or more dimensions of the order of 100 nanometers (100 millionth of a millimeter) or less.2
CUTTING EDGE
Nanotechnology has the potential to generate advancements and innovations in formulations and delivery systems. This fast-developing technology has been widely exploited for diagnostic and therapeutic purposes. Today, cosmetic formulations incorporating nanotechnology are a relatively new, yet very promising and highly researched area. The application of nanotechnology in cosmetics has been shown to overcome the drawbacks associated with traditional cosmetics and to add more useful features to a formulation. Nanocosmetics and nanocosmeceuticals have been extensively explored for skin, hair, nails, lips, and teeth, and the inclusion of nanomaterials has been found to improve product efficacy and consumer satisfaction. This is leading to the replacement of many traditional cosmeceuticals with nanocosmeceuticals.1
William Shakespeare once said, “The eyes are the window to your soul,” and there are countless songs and poems devoted to the eyes of a loved one. Believe it or not, there’s actual science behind why the eyes are viewed as an important facial feature. In a study conducted in 2017, both men and women say that the eyes are the most attractive part of a person’s face.
EYE OF THE BEHOLDER
Given the attention on the eyes, traditional and digital beauty media have long dedicated content focused on the appearance of them, specifically addressing concerns for under-eye skin conditions. A search for “dark circles under eyes” will pull up over 29 million results on YouTube, over 34 million on Instagram, and over 13 million on TikTok. A search for “antiaging eyes” results in even more impressive numbers with over 45 million results on YouTube, over 45 million on Instagram, and over 25 million on TikTok.
Concealing under-eye issues is another popular topic as there are countless articles with headlines like, “Concealer Deep Dive,” “Does Your Under Eye Concealer Make You Look Old,” and not to mention, the inevitable annual, “Best Under Eye Concealer of *insert year here.*” A search for “under eye concealer” results in more than six million results on Instagram, over three million on TikTok, and well over 11 million on YouTube. On average, a woman in the United States spends $15,000 in her lifetime on cosmeceuticals and makeup, a large percentage of which is spent on under-eye concealers.
EYES & THE TREATMENT ROOM
Skin care professionals know only too well that clients want solutions that address their under-eye skin concerns and conditions, as well as products and treatments that maintain their overall orbital area skin health.
Those in Generation X are currently between 44 years old and 59 years old, and as of 2019, there are approximately 65.2 million Gen Xers in the United States. Sixty-four million United States women are 50 and older with half of the female population being age 40 and older according to the United States Census Bureau (2021). It’s estimated that 6,000 women daily, and more than two million women yearly, reach menopause. By the year 2025, 1.1 billion women will be menopausal due to women living longer. The average woman can expect to spend 40% of her life in post-menopause.
CHANGE OF LIFE
Menopause, which starts on average between the ages of 45 and 55 years, is defined as the cessation of menses, the menstrual cycle. Whereas, perimenopause is the precursor to menopause. Perimenopause means “around menopause” and refers to the time during which the body makes the natural transition to menopause, marking the end of the reproductive years. Perimenopause is also called the menopausal transition. Women start perimenopause at different ages. A woman may notice signs of progression toward menopause, such as menstrual irregularity, sometime in their 40s, but some women notice changes as early as their mid-30s.
Menopause is associated with falling estrogen levels which can bring about a significant number of health challenges, including bone loss, which can lead to osteoporosis, depression due to waning levels of the anti-inflammatory hormone estradiol, and an increased risk of cardiovascular disease (CVD), to name just a few. Estrogen is an important reproductive hormone in people of all sexes. It’s generally known as the female sex hormone because of its role in the development of the female reproductive system and regulation of the menstrual cycle.
Estrogen stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid, a substance that retains water in skin and promotes the production of collagen and elastin, proteins that give skin its elasticity and firmness. The impact of the low estrogen state of menopause also has implications on the structure and function of skin, with as many as 64% of women attending menopause clinics reporting skin problems.
Lila Castellanos has focused her energies into the beauty industry for the past 19 years, specializing in skin rejuvenation. She has lent her expertise to several different fields including as a paramedical aesthetician as well as in both day spa and mobile spa business models. It was through these varied experiences, along with the interactions with her loyal clientele, that she honed her passion for improving and maintaining the health and integrity of her clients’ skin. Castellanos thrives on being able to use her extensive knowledge to customize each treatment to help her clients achieve the results they are searching for. Her adaptability and versatility are equally impressive in providing antiaging facials, treating acne, minimizing the appearance of scarring, or addressing skin conditions that arise as a result of hormonal changes.
We are all familiar with skin care treatments that heat up skin or cause a warming reaction – our trusted steamers, radio frequency (RF), microcurrent, lasers, and chemical peels, to name a few. But there are facial treatments that aim for the very opposite, to produce a cooling effect.
CRYO PIONEERS
Providing cooling treatments in skin care isn’t a new trend. In fact, treatment by cold
(cryotherapy) has been practiced in medicine for many centuries. “The use of liquid air to produce intense cold locally by [Campbell] White in 1899 introduced a new and valuable method of treatment into dermatology. His technique was soon adopted successfully by other American practitioners such as Trimble (1905), Whitehouse (1907), and Dade (1908); liquid air was used also in Australia by Beckett (1905)”.1 The use of cooling treatments in skin care has continued and evolved to modern day.
Lila Castellanos has focused her energies into the beauty industry for the past 19 years, specializing in skin rejuvenation. As a licensed aesthetician, she has lent her expertise to several different environments, including working as a paramedical aesthetician in the medical spa field as well as in both day spa and mobile spa business models. It was through these varied experiences, along with the interactions with her loyal clientele, that she honed her passion for improving and maintaining the health and integrity of her clients’ skin. Castellanos thrives on being able to use her extensive knowledge to customize each treatment to help her clients achieve the results they are searching for. Her adaptability and versatility are equally impressive in providing antiaging facials, treating acne, minimizing the appearance of scarring, or addressing skin conditions that arise as a result of hormonal changes.
As gender neutrality becomes a more mainstream concept and continues to evolve with language and policies helping to lead the way, there are still many opportunities in the aesthetics industry to develop universally accepted treatments and products for all clientele.
THE BEGINNINGS OF THE MODERN COSMETICS INDUSTRY
The rise of modern skin care started with the formation of the FDA in 1906 to regulate the industry. During this time, L’Oreal, Elizabeth Arden, Max Factor, and Maybelline all launched a range of skin care products and the cosmetic world as we now know it began to take shape.1 The roaring 20s and glamorous movie stars of the 30s finally brought cosmetics into the mass merchandise market, where they were sold in department stores and other venues. It was about this time that some of the best-known brand names – many of which are still sold today – entered the picture, and the modern cosmetics industry was born.
By the 90s and early 2000s, many skin care brands began to explore the untapped potential of men’s skin care, capitalizing on the metrosexual movement. Most often, men’s skin care products are pitched as practical, solutions-based offerings to address specific concerns.
2023 saw the rise of many skin care ingredient trends. There was hybrid skin care, faux freckles, skin minimalism, also known as skin streaming, inclusive sun protection, and clean beauty, just to name a few. However, there was one skin care ingredient that consistently delivered thousands, if not millions, of views on social media platforms last year – rice water. On TikTok alone, #ricewaterforskin resulted in over 99 million views with claims that rice water relieves itchy skin from atopic dermatitis, improves barrier function, delivers glass skin, and more.
GRAINS OF HISTORY
While rice water is trending, it certainly isn’t new to skin care. In fact, the use of rice in beauty has deep roots in Asian cultures. In Japan, rice water has been used by court ladies for their hair since the ancient Heian Period (794 to 1185 AD), and Geishas used to bathe in rice-bran water to exfoliate and soften their skin. In Korea, the practice of rice washing dates back to 1392 at the start of Joseon dynasty (1392 to 1910), when the Gungnyeo, otherwise known as the palace women, discovered that rice water made their skin feel noticeably softer. In China, as early as the Qing Dynasty (1644 to1911), women used the leftover water from washing rice to cleanse and brighten their skin.
Sometimes what’s old is new again. This can certainly be applied to gua sha. Gua sha (Chinese: 刮痧; pinyin: guā shā; pronounced gwahshah) began its rise to internet prominence in 2021 and has remained a topic of interest ever since. A search for #guasha results in over 2.9 billion views on TikTok, and over 728,000 posts on Instagram. Articles on gua sha can be found in magazines like Vogue, Cosmopolitan, Allure, and Harper’s Bazaar, and on news sites such as Newsweek, ABC News, Good Morning America, the Today Show, and more.
ANCIENT HISTORY
It’s believed that the practice of gua sha can be traced back to the Paleolithic Age where hands or stones were rubbed on various parts of the body to alleviate pain or sickness, and it was documented as a form of treatment in medical journals during the Ming Dynasty (1368 to 1644) by the ancient Chinese.
The name gua sha breaks down to mean: gua for scraping, and sha for redness. This longstanding Traditional Chinese Medicine healing method was adopted into other Asian cultures and goes by kashin in Japan, kerokan in Indonesia, gual sa in Korea, and cao gió in Vietnam, while practitioners in France know it as tribo-effleurage. Thanks to the virality of social media, as well as copious amounts of news coverage, gua sha is now universally known as a treatment modality.
STUDIES SHOW
In gua sha, practitioners use a smooth-edged tool to stroke skin, gliding along the lymphatic system to improve blood circulation and aid in drainage function, resulting in the rapid rush of blood circulation to the treatment area. A 2021 study found that scraping marks (petechiae and ecchymoses) are formed when capillaries break open and blood leaks into the subcutis, and that cell debris is concurrently removed by microglia and macrophages. Hypothesizing that the nervous system and immune system interact with one another to generate a cascade of physiological responses to the scraping, through which scraping may result in therapeutic benefits.
An earlier study conducted in 2007 aimed to study the microcirculatory effects of gua sha on skin and the subcutis in humans to elucidate physiological mechanisms responsible for the clinically observed pain-relieving effect of this treatment. Laser doppler imaging (LDI) was used to make sequential measurements of the microcirculation of surface tissue before and after gua sha treatment in 11 healthy subjects. The effect of gua sha treatment on the microcirculation of surface tissue was expressed as changes from baseline in arbitrary perfusion units (PU). It showed that gua sha caused a fourfold increase in microcirculation perfusion units at the treated area for the first 7.5 minutes following treatment and a significant increase in surface microcirculation during the entire 25 minutes of the study period following treatment (P .001). Interestingly, females showed significantly higher rates of response than males.
ON A COSMETIC LEVEL
As practitioners, we can appreciate that studies have shown that this daily ritual improves microcirculation up to 400%, however, most clients are looking for the reported aesthetic benefits often associated with a gua sha facial. The often-noted results include the reduction of puffiness, the sculpting of the jawline and cheekbones, the relaxation of facial muscles, the improvement of skin elasticity, and the minimization of fine lines and wrinkles. It’s also reported that gua sha promotes the production of collagen, which can help even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of discoloration, such as hyperpigmentation. While there is some anecdotal evidence to support these claims, there is little empirical research to-date to offer concrete data for reference.
This lack of research has not affected the interest and demand in gua sha facial treatments, so it may be something worth considering if you haven’t already adopted this modality. There are a number of certification programs available to ensure proper training and methodology, and all gua sha practitioners will want to familiarize themselves with the contraindications, such as injury to skin, like sunburn, rashes, abrasions, bruising, ulceration, and lesions. Also, any clients with bleeding disorders such as leukemia, anemia, and thrombocytopenia, or those taking blood thinners should avoid this treatment.
TOOLBOX
Lastly, there are a number of gua sha tools including wing-type tools, s-shaped tools, rollers and more. The gua sha tools market in North America and Europe is expanding at a significant rate and is estimated to grow during the forecast period due to its popularity, the presence of a number of beauty salons, e-commerce websites offering discounts on gua sha tools, adherence to strict quality controls, and existing product development processes. The numbers show remarkable market growth, which points to future opportunities on the treatment provider end, as well as retail sales.
When we think of the skin care industry, we may not immediately think of what has traditionally been known as men’s skin care; however, it is an important segment of the consumer group, and worth time and consideration.
In a study by Straits Research, the global men’s skin care products market was valued at $12.981 billion in 2022.1 It is estimated to be valued at $15.23 billion in 2023 and is expected to total $37 billion by 2033. The adoption of men’s skin care products is likely to advance at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 9.4% during the forecast period.2
A FEW GOOD MEN
The growing demand for gender-specific products such as shampoos, conditioners, shaving creams, face masks, and peels by men is expected to positively impact the market.3 Interestingly enough, it appears that men’s spending habits differ from women’s when it comes to impulse buying. Men are more than willing to splurge on skin care as a form of self-care due to their growing awareness of skin care products. In Deloitte’s latest update to its ongoing Global State of the Consumer Index, researchers found when men splurge, they spend 40% more than women globally and in the United States on various items.4
However, the surging disregard of gender binaries among Generation Z consumers is a major growth opportunity the men’s skin care market offers.5 Nearly 40% of adults aged 18 to 22 have shown interest in gender-neutral beauty products, according to the NPD Group’s iGen Beauty Consumer report.6
Digital Development
Men have been exposed to much more information about skin care, beauty products, and cosmetics as a result of the rise of social media beauty bloggers and influencers. While TikTok and Instagram have similar membership numbers, TikTok has a larger audience for male-centered beauty content. According to market and consumer data platform Statista, as of January 2023, approximately 54% of TikTok global users were women and 46% were men. The #mensskincare hashtag currently draws up approximately 350,000 results on Instagram; on TikTok, the same hashtag has over 295 million views. A representative from TikTok pulled up the viewership count for several of the most popular male-centered beauty hashtags: #mensgrooming has 1.5 billion views, #mensmakeup has 326.8 million, #mensskincare has 292.7 million and #mensskincareproducts has 31.7 million.7
Lila Castellanos has focused her energies into the beauty industry for the past 19 years, specializing in skin rejuvenation. As a licensed aesthetician, she has lent her expertise to several different environments including working as a paramedical aesthetician in the medical spa field as well as in both day spa and mobile spa business models. It was through these varied experiences, along with the interactions with her loyal clientele, that she honed her passion for improving and maintaining the health and integrity of her clients’ skin. Castellanos thrives on being able to use her extensive knowledge to customize each treatment to help her clients achieve the results they are searching for. Her adaptability and versatility are equally impressive in providing antiaging facials, treating acne, and minimizing the appearance of scarring or when addressing skin conditions that arise as a result of hormonal changes.
Supporting existing clientele while attracting new devotees is the name of the game when it comes to maximum business engagement. In order to successfully run an aesthetics business, it is imperative to understand everything from what is ahead in the skin care world to making a business a safe place for all, while staying within the scope of the aesthetician practice.
TIME FOR A TIME-OUT
Suggesting products and at home treatments to clients is a common part of the standard treatment plan for skin care professionals. It is normally recommended that clients use products for a period of one to three months to gauge their effectiveness. However, over time, skin care routines can become less effective as skin adapts to products and builds up a tolerance to certain ingredients, leading to diminishing results.
If clients report that they are no longer seeing the desired outcome from their at homecare products, or that they have noticed negative or unwanted changes in their skin, such as issues with their tone, or texture, redness, dry patches, breakouts, or irritation, it is time to re-evaluate their products and make some changes.