PEELS Exfoliation is essential to an effective skin care routine. There are countless chemical exfoliators boasting substantial results, but what separates each peel is the functionality of the ingredients incorporated. Even as professionals, it is not a simple process to find the perfect exfoliator for each client. But, what may make the job less daunting is discovering the function of key ingredients that can be found in many products on the market. Here are a few ingredients to look out for. SALICYLIC ACID When utilized in chemical peels, this beta hydroxy acid (BHA) is often found in a concentration of up to 30 percent. When combined with other active ingredients, salicylic acid has the ability to diminish the appearance of acne, reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles, and make the skin appear more even in tone. Though it is a relatively low-risk acid, if it is used in excess in higher concentration, toxic results may occur. AZELAIC ACID A naturally-occurring compound, azelaic acid is typically used in skin care products as a gentler alternative to many other acids. One of the draws is it is naturally at a similar pH level to human skin. It is found in the healthy bacteria and yeast found in the body; azelaic acid is produced by the microbiome. Because it is naturally found in the body, it is pH-dependent, which means that it will not function properly if the product it is found in does not mimic the levels of the human body. FULVIC ACID Though it does not directly effect cell regeneration, when paired with other acids, fulvic acid enhances the properties of those acids. It is typically found in chemical peels and skin care products because it is an antibacterial. This acid is a powerful antioxidant with the capability to prevent and reverse inflammation. MANGOSTEEN This fruit possesses many health and beauty benefits. The vitamin C in mangosteen assists with skin brightening and collagen forming, which is essential to maintaining firm, youthful skin. But one of the greatest benefits is its ability to eliminate dead skin cells and promote cell regeneration, revealing fresh, radiant skin. The peel of the fruit is also packed with anti-inflammatory properties, reducing acne and preventing the formation of breakouts. MANDELIC ACID Similar to glycolic and lactic acids, mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). However, the molecular structure of mandelic acid is much larger, preventing it from penetrating and irritating the skin as easily as the aforementioned acids. Thus, it is able to do the work of sloughing off the top layer of skin without damaging the layers underneath. Chemical peels with mandelic acid are a great choice for those trying a chemical peel for the first time as it is a relatively gentle, yet effective, choice. Its antibacterial qualities also make it ideal for those with acne-prone skin. LACTIC ACID Like glycolic acid, but much gentler, lactic acid is an AHA that helps the skin maintain its ideal pH level. Peels that utilize the properties in lactic acid remove toxins, dead skin cells, and germs. They are most commonly suggested for people that have sensitive skin, as they may not be able to handle the intensity of glycolic acid peels. Lactic acid is often used in various concentrations. Sensitive skin is normally treated with a peel with a concentration of about 30 percent. Those with normal skin needing a bit of toning or moisture is treated with a concentration of around 40 percent. And those with aging skin are typically treated with a peel with 50 percent concentration as it is the most intense, smoothing the appearance of wrinkles and lines while toning. HIBISCUS (FLOWER ACID) This colorful flower holds one of the most potent, second generation AHAs commonly used in skin care products. Flower acids are extracted from the chalices of the hibiscus flower. More moisturizing than lactic acid, flower acids are often layered within products with other potent active ingredients to create gentle, yet highly effective peels. Flower acids are considered apart of the new generation of AHAs because they have not been traditionally utilized in chemical peels. This is a fairly recent occurrence in the effort to create safe alternatives in encouraging skin brightening, cell regeneration, smoothing, firming, and skin rejuvenation. TCA Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is effective in low strengths and can be used in conjunction with other acids. For a little over 20 years, this acid has been used to create the ideal peel. TCA is often used in chemical peels to aid in the toning of skin because it only takes up to seven days to dry up the top layer of skin, revealing fresh, undamaged skin that is even in tone. A cousin of vinegar, an acetic acid, TCA is also effective in smoothing fine lines and wrinkles. These benefits are not exclusive to TCA, however, there are many acids that do not possess the ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, such as most AHAs. CITRIC ACID When used in peels, citric acid can be used to slough off dead skin cells, promoting cell turnover. This is crucial to an effective peel, allowing the new fresh skin underneath the layer of dead skin to be revealed. Citric acid is effective in remedying uneven skin tone, smoothing out small wrinkles and fine lines, and diminishing the appearance of age spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). When used as the primary ingredient in a peel, it is minimally invasive, but still prompts results. A Natural Difference Skincare Enzymes are incredibly useful in the biological process of skin cells. The Fruit Enzyme Peels have the proprietary combination of super fruits and salicylic acid. Fruit enzymes are safe and superior in providing overall health benefits to the skin. A Natural Difference has five choices of fruit enzyme peels: Cherry Berry, Cranberry, Mango, Phyto-Pumpkin, and Zesty Orange. There is also a choice of strengths for professionals to choose from that can be used for every skin type. There are also instructions for combination, layered, and sectional treatments that enable Fruit Enzyme Peels to perform and provide medical grade results. 888-568-3150 or anaturaldifference.com DermAware GO SPOT GO PEEL is an award-winning peel for all skin types and skin colors that targets hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, loss of elasticity, pore refinement and spots due to acne. Highlighting kojic, azelaic, cocoa antioxidants, natural quinones, and glutathione, Go Spot Go delivers a triple punch. These peels include an antibacterial to control blemishes and anti-inflammatory to reduce inflammation, as well as inhibitory to control all forms of hyperpigmentation including melasma. 888-292-3376 or dermaware.com Elina Organics Skincare Probiotic Peel will brighten, rejuvenate, and restore skin thanks to a mix of fulvic acid and live cultures. In this formulation, Elina Organics Skincare uses a synergetic blend of friendly bacteria, which is proven to balance skin. Probiotic Peel is a leave-on organic skin restoring and healing serum. It helps to smooth texture, reduce skin irritation, and discoloration for a healthier and more radiant appearance. It is especially beneficial for oily skin. 877-384-8300 or elinaorganics.com Éminence Organic Skin Care Mangosteen Lactic Pro Peel 10% is formulated to address the root causes of dullness and tired, uneven-looking skin, the products in the newest collection combine a proprietary Lactic Acid Complex with antioxidant-rich mangosteen to unveil a fresh, luminous complexion. The Mangosteen Lactic Pro Peel provides a complete surface and pore-refining treatment by removing impurities and dead skin cells while minimizing pores and smoothing the skin. This replenishing peel is self-neutralizing and clinically-proven to be non-irritating, even for sensitive skin. 888-747-6342 or eminenceorganics.com Face Reality Skincare Face Reality Skincare’s Acne Peel #1 utilizes a combination of mandelic, lactic, azelaic, and kojic acids in their line of acne peels for treating all grades of acne. With a combination of exfoliating and brightening properties, these self-neutralizing peels are the standard for acne professionals the world over. Face Reality acne peels are the intelligent choice for skin rejuvenation while treating and clearing acne clients. 866-477-3077 or facerealityacneclinic.com GlyMed Plus Chocolate Power Skin Rescue Peel is formulated with lactic acid and natural extracts of cocoa, resveratrol, and acai berry a powerful antioxidant combined to deliver excellent refining, anti-aging, and skin restoring benefits. This unique formulation influences collagen and improves skin hydration, elasticity, and tone. This exfoliator is a must-have in a treatment and is best used cocktailed to suit the needs of well prepped clients. 800-676-9667 or glymedplus.com Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals The Hibiscus Peel, a high-end serum peel, is a non-irritating phytobioactive formula that accelerates cell turnover while providing skin lightening, healing, and hydrating benefits. It works with all skin types as it addresses aging, dull skin tone and impurities. Like the Flower Acid Peel, the formula also blends hibiscus, L-mandelic, and pyruvic acid, as well as phytic acid, a natural antioxidant that works to prevent damaging free radicals from forming during the cell disruption that occurs with most peel treatments. 866-313-7546 or rhondaallison.com VI Aesthetics The VI Peel® portfolio provides five painless medical-grade chemical peels specifically formulated to effectively target various skin concerns including skin rejuvenation, anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, acne, and acne scarring. Each peel contains a synergistic blend of low-level acids, such as TCA, that can be safely used on various skin tones (Fitzpatrick I-VI) and deliver dramatic results in as little as seven days. 855-847-3357 or viaesthetics.com Vivant Skin Care Vivant Skin Care’s rapid rejuvenation ProPeel® is a four step, medium depth chemical peel that dramatically improves skin texture and tone by removing the top layers of skin including cellular buildup and impactions. The formulation of lactic, salicylic, and citric acids, plus TCA and natural moisturizers safely and effectively fades acne scars, diminishe lines, builds collagen, and reduces discoloration in every skin type and tone. 855-984-8268 or vivantskincare.comWant to read more? Subscribe to one of our monthly plans to continue reading this article.