Safe Space

The beauty industry has been dominated with services targeting women for decades, but the cultural acceptance of gender fluidity means skin care professionals have an enormous, new opportunity. Offering services and products curated for men as well as those who identify as nonbinary gives professionals the ability to build a stronger client base. To understand this shift, it is vital takes a deeper dive into hormone activity, common hormone-related issues that affects skin, and professional and at-home treatment options. In addition, becoming educated on client transitioning and how to address those skin concerns, as well as modifying one’s mindset to revising the service menu to attract a wider and more diverse clientele will be beneficial. 

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

Mary NielsenTechnician, educator, mentor, and business owner, Mary Nielsen has been at the forefront in medical aesthetics since its infancy in the early 1990s. She is an Oregon-certified advanced aesthetician and a licensed aesthetics instructor. She serves as vice chair of the Oregon Board of Certified Advanced Estheticians. She is the author of several aesthetics books, including four chapters in the latest “Milady’s Esthetics” textbook. 

Change of Life

Professionals may have wondered about the effects menopause has on skin. They have all worked with clients who have relatively good skin and seem to be aging graciously, then suddenly skin begins to exhibit increased dryness, loss of tone, breakouts, and other conditions in a seemingly short amount of time. What exactly is happening inside the body to bring on these changes? 

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

Karen AsquithKaren Asquith is recognized as an honored member of the Stanford International “Who’s Who” of business executive professionals. Currently, she is the national director of education for G.M. Collin Skin Care, based in Montreal, Canada and in Plattsburgh, New York, where she provides skin care training programs and guidance for an international staff of 140. For the past decade, Asquith has consistently been featured as a guest lecturer at skin care industry forums, presenting cutting-edge skin care protocols and topics throughout North America.  

More and more men are regularly treating their skin both at home and in spas. For many professionals, male clients may be some of their most loyal clients. But when looking at the reality of the state of cisgendered men’s skin care, it is by no means as normalized in the mainstream markets as experts have long been predicting. Why is this the case? Why is it rare for cisgendered men to place value in properly caring for their skin with consistent morning and night skin care routines? 

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

Michael McGuireMichael McGuire is the CEO of GM Revolution. With a background in mechanical engineering, entrepreneurship, and growing up in the skin care industry, McGuire is on a mission to normalize men taking care of the health of their skin. GM Revolution is introducing men to the concept of skin health while empowering them to be positive agents of change in their communities. GM Revolution wants to shape the future of men’s skin care.  

Saving Skin

Written by   Dr. Sharad Paul

Skin cancer is a growing problem internationally. The incidence of melanoma has increased by 4% to 6% annually in fair-skinned populations in North America, Northern Europe, Australia, and New Zealand.1 One in 50 Americans develop skin cancer, and melanoma skin cancer kills one American every hour – that is almost 10,000 people per year.2 During the last 30 years, the incidence of squamous cell carcinomas (SCC) has been rising 3% to 10% per year whereas the basal cell carcinoma (BCC) incidence rate has risen between 20% and 80% in the United States.3 

Aestheticians, massage therapists, hairdressers, and beauticians regularly observe skin of clients, and therefore, any skin therapist plays an important part in the diagnosis and referral of skin cancers. Aestheticians professionals see clients, especially women, more often than dermatologists or family physicians, which means that they play an important role in early skin cancer detection, thereby saving some lives.4  

Any cancer is an overgrowth of cells, and skin cancer is no different. Cellular abnormalities are caused in skin’s outer layer, the epidermis, by ultraviolet rays that trigger genetic mutations and cause basal, squamous, and melanoma skin cancers in skin.  

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

Sharad PaulDr. Sharad P. Paul is a skin cancer specialist, skin care formulator, and medical doctor. He is known for one of the largest series of skin patients worldwide. In 2015, he received the Ko Awatea Global Award for “improving skin cancer management, education, and patient-centered care internationally.” TIME magazine called him an “Open Heart(ed) Surgeon.” The New Zealand Medical Association described him as “one of the most inspiring, intelligent, and compassionate men [one is] likely to meet.” He has authored best-selling books like “The Genetics of Health,” “Skin, a Biography,” and several medical textbooks. He is the founder of Healthy Skin Lab and recently launched Skin by Dr. Sharad, featuring No-ToxÒ technology, in the United States. 

B & B

Written by  

Over the last several years, sheet masks have gained popularity in both professional treatments and home usage. The increase in popularity has led to an abundance of sheet masks being rapidly produced to increase product and service offerings.  

In the world of sheet masks, many options are available, but there exists a wide variance in the quality of the masks depending on the technology, structure, production, and ingredients. To understand these variances, it is essential to understand the different types.  

 Sheet masks provide more tools to give the usual skin care routine a boost. They are easy to utilize, results are visible immediately after removal, and they are generally inexpensive. Technological advances in the production of sheet masks are rapidly changing to provide the most advanced result-driven treatments. 

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

Susan WadeSusan Wade joined Viktoria De’Ann in 2015 as the director of education and sales after working in the health and education industry for over 30 years. She holds a Masters in Higher Education, is a licensed aesthetician and is currently completing her license in functional medicine. Wade taught Kinesiology courses for 12 years at Boise State University, along with owning and operating a sports training business working closely with physicians, physical therapists, faculty members, and athletes. Her passion lies in learning about the complexities of physiology, nutrition, and cellular functions coupled with peptide science, and she enjoys sharing her knowledge in a simple and applicable format.  

There has been a lot of focus on endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) in the news over the past few years in response to their detrimental effects on people and the environment. Research is finding that these can have an effect on skin, including exacerbating acne. New research also shows that specific species of seaweed can be beneficial in mediating the detrimental effects of endocrine-disrupting chemicals. Using mineral-based environmental protection can be a good strategy as well. Still, it is important to know what endocrine-disrupting chemicals are and how to combat them with new ideas on treatment options. 

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

Lydia SarfatiLydia Sarfati is an international industry leader with over 46 years of experience as a spa owner, consultant, and aesthetician. She is the founder and CEO of Repêchage, the first company to bring seaweed-based skin care treatments to the United States market. She is also the President of CIDESCO Section U.S.A, the world’s major international beauty therapy association. She appears at industry trade shows, is the author of Success at Your Fingertips: How to Succeed in the Skin Care Business and The Repêchage Book of Skincare Science & Protocols, and is a contributing author to textbooks, such as The Milady Standard Esthetics: Fundamentals, Twelfth Edition, and Oncology Esthetics.  

From the Inside Out: Hormones & Diet

As we fight the aging process with new science and technology, there are some basic factors that are constantly overlooked. The old saying “you are what you eat” is still extremely relevant. Plus, hormones have major importance in the body, especially regarding appearance and physical and emotional health. 

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

Nicole MajdaliSouthern California native Nicole Majdali has worked as a makeup artist since she was 18 years old. She then studied aesthetics and became a licensed aesthetician. After working in spas for a few years, she opened her own studio and began working as a representative for two German companies. Her passion for educating others on taking care of themselves, their skin, and their health advanced her career as a speaker. She was certified twice overseas in Aachen, Germany with Janssen Cosmetics and continues to go back for education. She has been working for Janssen and Dr. Schrammek in Midwest and Southern California as an educator and account manager for over 18 years. Majdali’s career has expanded beyond the aesthetics industry into the entertainment industry, but she incorporates her knowledge of wellness and beauty into both worlds. 

Next Level: Hormonal Skin Conditions

Anyone who has ever dealt with hormonal skin conditions knows how frustrating and heartbreaking they can be. No matter the effort that is put in, it can feel like a never-ending uphill battle, and it can be difficult for professionals to help clients understand something that they themselves may not. How can professionals fight a battle with biology and genetics and try to help find a solution to certain conditions that clients have just about given up on? When should aestheticians refer out to medical professionals, and how do they work in unison with the doctor recommendations and treatment plans?  

The first and best place to start with any skin condition is to better understand the source(s), which, in turn, can allow professionals to better consult and treat or work together with clients to combat their hormonal skin conditions. A professional’s goal is to guide clients to find the best solution to combat their concerns. Whether it is something to balance their hormonal acne, lighten their hormone influenced pigmentation, or keep their collagen levels healthy, professionals need to see things that may not be in plain sight. They have to ask questions about personal matters, such as health history and medications, and make clients feel comfortable at all times to share such personal matters. Professionals must also know when to refer out to and work in conjunction with a medical professional, and what treatments are safe to use with any medications clients may have recently been prescribed for hormonal imbalances. 

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

Andrea GregaydisAndrea Gregaydis is a licensed aesthetician and international CIDESCO diplomat. She holds multiple additional licenses as a New York state instructor and nail technician, as well as certified laser technician. Gregaydis is the lead instructor at the Aesthetic Science Institute and has over 10 years of experience as a practitioner, team coordinator, and role model for 100s of future skin care professionals. She is a contributing author to top industry trade magazines, as well as a speaker at various aesthetics conferences across the United States. She is also a CIDESCO International Examiner. 

Social Media Links October

READ the October 2022 Issue

https://bit.ly/3EeId2G

 

READ the P&E Guide 2022

https://bit.ly/3HSiKeq

 

DERMASCOPE Seeks In-House Aestheticians
https://bit.ly/3gPQ6PC

 

Webinar: Acne Best Practices
https://bit.ly/3D55yTO

 

Webinar: Next Generation Peel

https://bit.ly/3C7HqhF

 

Webinar: Topical Live Probiotics

 https://bit.ly/3yNSm34

 

Join AIA
https://bit.ly/3EUXFh6

 

The Aesthetic Report

https://bit.ly/3c9umvU

 

Spa-tify: As Heard on TikTok

https://spoti.fi/3PQMTOF

 

Subscribe to our E-Newsletter

https://bit.ly/3u5Q0cz

 

2022 Monthly Columns

https://bit.ly/37xNLqN

 

2022 Aestheticians’ Choice Awards WINNERS List

https://bit.ly/3JmWU3J

 

Got a Question: Ask an Expert

https://bit.ly/3gOKA0E

 

Unlocking Holiday Success

https://bit.ly/3ERflhu 

 

Acne Treatments for Men & Women

https://bit.ly/3SNZ0xV

 

Nutrition & Acne Inflammation

https://bit.ly/3BVF19K

 

Aerosol Alternatives

https://bit.ly/3e2BVZk

 

Facial Hair & Acne

https://bit.ly/3dZ2sHe

 

DERMASCOPE.COM

https://bit.ly/3qAD1in

 

In-Spa Acne

According to The American Academy of Dermatology, acne is the most common skin condition in the United States, affecting up to 50 million Americans annually. Acne occurring in adults is increasing, affecting up to 15% of women. More than 5.1 million people sought medical treatment for acne in 2013, primarily children and young adults. These statistics shows that there is a great demand for skin care professionals who are passionate about wanting to implement an acne boot camp to their service menu. 

Standard aesthetics training mainly focuses on skin care fundamentals, such as cleansing, toning, facial massage, steam, some extractions, facial masks, and finishing products. Very few aesthetics and cosmetology programs adequately address acne concerns and treatment protocols. For a professional to determine if acne is the right specialty for them, it is important to not only financially plan but to also take the time to search for a program that will offer the tools necessary to get results with acne clients.  

An acne specialist is a licensed aesthetician who has gone beyond the state licensing requirements and studied the work of the world’s foremost acne researchers to learn the complex causes and treatments of acne. They have studied what ingredients in skin care products contribute to clogged pores, what environmental factors contribute to irritation and inflammation, what dietary components do and do not exacerbate acne, and what treatment modalities show the most consistent success.  

The acne specialist takes extra time to learn about clinical research and treatments available today and networks with other specialists around the country and around the world to learn what is working, what is not, and why. The acne specialist is trained to examine and test each client’s skin for sensitivities and tolerances, build a custom treatment plan for each individual, and work together with that individual until their complexion is clear. 

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

Beatrice VanBeatrice Van, an award-winning aesthetics master educator is an enthusiastic, positive self-starter with over 17 years of progressive experience in the beauty industry. In addition to her role as Clinical Master Aesthetics Educator at Spectrum Advanced Aesthetics, she is the clinical director for Fearless Beauties, a certified advanced aesthetician, makeup artist, and nail specialist. On her days off, she works at Indie Esthetics, helping her clients look and feel like the very best versions of themselves or travels throughout North America as an education ambassador for CND and Fearless Beauties. Her passion is to empower both students and beauty professionals to boldly invest in their education and strengthen their skills while elevating standards in the industry. 

Out of Sight

Acne is an exceptionally common skin condition that affects people of all ages and in varying degrees. Despite its frequency, acne may emotionally alienate those who experience it, and effective treatment involves an understanding of the psychological aspects as well as physical. 

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

Michelle RobertsonMichelle Robertson is a licensed aesthetician of over 10 years and owner of Glo Skin in Palm Harbor, Florida. She earned a Bachelor of Science in cellular and molecular biology and brings over 15 years of industry experience, along with her background in research and chemistry, to her career. After growing up with acne and a strong Italian unibrow, Robertson learned the importance of proper skin care and the need for real results. Her passion for continuing education, science, and the client experience drive her to provide advanced, customized facials that combine relaxation and results. 

Focused Formulations

Acne is an inherited disorder in which pores shed dead skin cells much faster than normal. Typical pores shed about one layer of dead skin cells per day, and the body has no issue keeping up with this. Those who are acne-prone shed up to five layers of dead skin cells per day, and the body cannot keep up with this accelerated desquamation. The excess of skin cellular shedding coupled with sebum within the pore creates a microcomedone, the beginning of all acne lesions. This process is called retention hyperkeratosis, and it occurs when there is an accelerated production of skin cells and increased retention of dead skin cells within the pore. 

Microcomedones take around 30 to 90 days to surface on skin. When they do become visible, they appear as open and closed comedones (blackheads and whiteheads). If bacteria are introduced, they can become inflamed lesions – papules, pustules, and cysts. While acne is typically hereditary, there are many factors that can exacerbate this skin condition, like pore clogging skin care, hormonal imbalances, and certain lifestyle choices. There is no cure for acne, but it can be controlled with a combination of lifestyle choices and the right topical formulations. 

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

Alex HernandezAlex Hernandez, a licensed aesthetician since 2016, serves as the clinic manager and lead educator at the Face Reality Acne Clinic in San Leandro, California. Hernandez has trained alongside Laura Cooksey, owner and co-founder of Face Reality Skincare. Among those professionals, Hernandez became a Face Reality Certified Acne Expert in 2018, through diligent practical training and the completion of the online course. Since then, Hernandez has worked with hundreds of acne clients in her aesthetics career.  

The Big Picture

Acne has long been held as a medical issue that requires a pill, a cream, or even a treatment to be the final answer to clear skin. Countless marketing dollars have been spent convincing acne sufferers that their condition could be easily eliminated with enough potent actives. After all, acne vulgaris affects up to 80% of the population at some point in their lives. Currently, practice trends are shifting with consumer interest and more people are interested with well-being programs versus quick fixes. Wellness is the long game when it comes to truly healthy skin, and healthy skin lessens the risk of problem skin conditions such as acne. Clients are expecting more than ever from their spa visits. Understanding how to align care and focus with a holistic acne approach will give a skin care professional an edge when it comes to clearing a client’s skin and keeping their long-term business. 

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

Elizabeth BrasherElizabeth Brasher has been a licensed aesthetician since 2011 and practicing with a strive for advanced skin care education ever since. Brasher is an aesthetician at Premier Med Spa in Richardson, Texas. She continues to devote herself to helping her colleagues by offering expert training, heading online aesthetics forums, and writing contributions to industry magazines. At the beginning of 2020, Brasher became DERMASCOPE Magazine’s lead in-house aesthetician.  

Pacifying PCOS: A Quick Look at Polycystic Ovary Syndrome

Polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) is characterized by enlarged ovaries that have developed small cysts around the outer edges. This endocrine disorder is the most common cause of infertility among reproductive-age women. Though attention has long been focused on the reproductive issues accompanying this condition, the clinical definition of PCOS has recently broadened to include dermatologic manifestations as well. 

Treatments of PCOS have included hormonal therapy to control androgen production and nonhormonal therapies to address specific skin conditions. While these interventions do not cure PCOS, they do mitigate its symptoms. Recently, bariatric surgery is emerging as a highly effective intervention.   

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

October 2024

Brands of the Month

  • Eminence Organic Skin Care.
  • Celluma by Biophotas, Inc
  • Face Reality Skincare

Business

Under Construction: Choosing the Best Website Builder for a Skin Care Business 

Employee to Entrepreneur: Preparing for Success 

More Skills, More Clients 

Tips For Medical Spa Pros To Become Better Patient Advocates 

Beauty

Greenlighting Sustainability: Biotechnology & the Future of Sustainable Beauty

Lip Service: The Top 10 Lip Tips of 2023

In the Land of Lashes

Poreless Perfection: Glass Skin Makeup

Body

Light Work: Enhancing Outcomes & Growing Incomes with LED Light Therapy 

The Sun Never Sets  

The Brightside of Skin Health 

 A Guide to Body Brightening: Treatments & Ingredients