Ganga Gurus: THC & CBD

Cannabidiol (CBD) infused beauty products are rapidly saturating the skin care industry. Small, boutique lines were the first to pave the way, bringing awareness to the consumer of the benefits of CBD. Today, major skin care brands are rolling out their versions, touting their elixir- like qualities across the United States in grocery stores, gas stations, truck stops, and even multi-level-marketing (MLM) enterprises.

To the average consumer, products containing cannabidiol (CBD) and tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) still seem to be shrouded with a sense of taboo and mystique. However, the global CBD infused skin care market is predicted to grow at a rate of 32.9%, which means it will reach a value of $1.7 billion by 2025. It is paramount for skin care professionals to have a basic understanding of what these products can mean for their skin care practice and how to incorporate them into the treatment room.

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Cannabis Contribution: Incorporating the Right CBD Products into the Spa

With the surge of cannabidiol products on the market, how are spa and wellness center managers to decide which brands to feature in their treatment menus and retail offerings? Product effectiveness and safety are top priorities, yet the FDA and other regulatory agencies currently only offer guidelines for manufacturers.

However, skin care professionals should not feel discouraged by this lack of direction. There are three key considerations to help them evaluate CBD brands and have confidence in selecting products that emulate their standards of exceptional quality, safety, and results. Consider the three “Ts” when choosing CBD products – transparency, traceability, and testing.

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The aging process is a natural, biological event that has been genetically programmed into the human species. Additionally, the term aging echoes into the social and economic sectors of everyday life. Viewpoints, including stereotyping, are reflective of the society and geographical region in which an individual resides. These perceptions are quickly shifting as an era of new perspectives emerges, which allows for extraordinary individual transformation. Most significantly, maturing clients are remaining healthier and vital throughout their life passages of 50 and beyond. They may be striving for retirement, reprioritizing their life and work, and adjusting to the new normal established during this past year. Indeed, 2020 provided opportunities of profound insight in how skin care professionals are going to best serve clients.

Gail Sheehy, author of the of the classic bestseller, “Passages,” compared the passage of life as being analogous to a lobster which grows by developing a series of hard, protective shells. Each time it expands from within, it must shed a confining shell. In parallel, in each passage from one stage of adult life to another, one must shed some of their protective structure, which leaves them temporarily exposed and vulnerable. During this process, however, one also becomes embryonic and exuberant again. A heightened potential appears to stretch towards new growth. Throughout this aging process, one may feel panicky and retreat or ignore the impulse to change and remain stuck in their shells. No matter the choices made, the future will be rendered better or worse, but in any case, restructured.

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Alexandra ZaniAlexandra J. Zani is an international educator, licensed instructor, speaker, author, and researcher in the professional skin care industry. Academic background includes cell biology and medical technology. Zani is on the Education Commission of the International Association for Applied Corneotherapy, is a member of NCEA (National Coalition of Estheticians, Associations, and Distributors), and is certified in Oncology Esthetics and the Pastiche Method of Skin Analysis. Zani is the owner and director of AEsthani Skincare Institute, LLC in Greenville, South Carolina and is also co-founder of Intellective Aesthetics, dedicated to post-graduate aesthetics studies.

This year, the oldest children of Generation Z (Gen Z) will turn 24, and these young people are well informed of the latest trends in fashion and beauty. Moreover, they are already no strangers to cosmetic procedures such as facial fillers and body contouring. With thousands of YouTubers, Instagram influencers, and TikTokers handing out beauty advice on their platforms, it is easy to see how masking and cosmetic injections have become the status quo for this young generation.

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Dasha Saian MarcheseDasha Saian Marchese is the co-founder and current CEO of Saian and has over 21 years of experience in the spa industry. In addition to her business and marketing degree, she is a licensed aesthetician, certified nutrition and wellness consultant, official ambassador of the Aesthetics International Association (AIA), and certified family herbalist. Marchese is on the Editorial Advisory Board of DERMASCOPE Magazine; she gives lectures and classes internationally and regularly contributes to global trade publications.

Aging is inevitable and as one gets older, skin’s structure, barrier function, and its sensitivities and conditions change. The one major concern for most clients and their skin is the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This is a normal part of aging; however, skin care professionals cannot help clients slow that process down by changing up their facial treatments or homecare routine. Educating clients on some of the potential causes that are contributing to their fine lines such as, a lack of proper sun protectant use, smoking, and improper nutrition to name a few is very important. Being able to communicate with clients about their habits, lifestyle, potential changes, commitment to treatments, and at-home skin care can yield great results in the prevention and reduction of fine lines. Encouraging clients to have a little patience in the process and to trust in the professional’s recommendations will be crucial to the outcome. In order for aestheticians to properly educate their clients, they need to thoroughly understand the many causes and factors of wrinkle formation.

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Andrea GregaydisAndrea Gregaydis is a licensed aesthetician and international CIDESCO diplomat. She holds multiple additional licenses as a New York state instructor and nail technician, as well as certified laser technician. Gregaydis is the lead instructor at the Aesthetic Science Institute and has over 10 years of experience as a practitioner, team coordinator, and role model for hundreds of future skin care professionals. She is contributing author to top industry trade magazines, as well as a speaker at various aesthetics conferences across the United States. She is also a CIDESCO International Examiner.

There was a time when clients would spend hours in the sun trying to achieve the perfect tan –lathering on lotions and oils aimed at encouraging deep color development with no consideration for long-term skin damage and health risks. While everyone loves the idea of a suntan, skin cancer is not worth the temporary glow. Thankfully, there is growing awareness of the dangers of clients exposing themselves to continuous sun exposure, and they are looking for safe alternatives.

Clients that still want that sun-kissed glowwithout exposure to the sun’s damaging ultraviolet rays now have the choice of FDA-approved, safe high-quality topical applications.Self-tanning products can now be applied topically by hand, sprayed on at home, airbrushed by a practitioner, or sprayed in a tanning booth with misters. Topical self-tanners mainly rely on the active ingredient dihydroxyacetone (DHA) to create a reaction in the skin that makes it appear darker than normal and can last seven to10 days.

 

DIHYDROXYACETONE

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA)is a three-carbon sugar, also known as glycerone or dihydroxy-2-propanone and is often derived from plant sources. DHA reacts with the amino groups of the proteins in the stratum corneum in a Maillard reaction to produce pigments called melanoidins. These pigments impart the brown color associated with self-tanning products. Results are generally seen within a few hours of application. Ultraviolet light exposure is not needed to initiate this chemical reaction.

DHA is added to lotions, sprays, creams, and foams and are intended to be rubbed or sprayed onto skin, with the result ofskin looking darker than it normally would.

Practitioner-applied spray tanning has gained enormous popularity over the years due to the superior results and advantages, such as fast and even coverage, the ability to customize the DHA strength depending on skin tone and results required, blend uneven skin tone, and the accessibility to hard-to-reach places.

 

SELF-TANNER SAFTEY

DHA was FDA-approved in the 1970s. The first sunless tanning products were marketed in the late 70s, and spray tans were commercially available in the late 1990s. Self-tanning products have been on the market for nearly 50-years, and these products have been used by possibly millions of Americans over that time. The timeover which these personal products have been in use without significant reports of adverse effects does seem to speak to their general safety.

There is a very small chance that some users will encounter allergic reactions to sunless tanning lotions or sprays, and it is important to take precautions with mucus membranes and areas of thinner skin, as those are the most likely to demonstrate allergies. The FDA has advised clients using automated tanning booths to wear suitable eye protection, nasal plugs, and lip balm. This is to reduce any absorption into the mucous membranes.

 

SUNSCREEN IS A NECESSITY 

While a sunless tan might look like a natural tan, it does not work like one. Sunless tanners do not provide any protection against ultraviolet radiation. It is essential that clients be advised that it is still necessary to wear sun-protective clothing and use a reputable sunscreen with a minimum of SPF 30. 

 

PRODUCT EQUALITY

When considering the best products forclients, it is important to conduct research. Points to consider includeif the item is manufactured by the brand or a third-party, the ability for direct contact for product related education, and if the item had to undergo sea travel, thus exposing its sensitive ingredients to extremes in temperatureVerify and understand the intent of ingredients, expiration datesand whether to buy from the source or a distributor where the product may have sat for months beforesold. Lastly, understand the DHA strength of the products being recommended and used so that a client’s full expectations are met and that the end result is a flawless-looking natural tan.

 

 

 

UVA Versus UVB: Similarities, Differences, & Everything in Between

 

Sunlight produces natural energy known asultraviolet radiation. This radiation is not physically visible andthere are three types that the sun creates: UVA, UVB, and UVC. UVA and UVB are the only two forms of radiation with the capacity to surpass the Earth’s atmosphere and reach the surface. Both types of ultraviolet rays can cause damage to the skin in distinctive manners. 

 

UVA

  • Causes aging
  • Contributesto the development of skin cancer
  • Longest wavelength of the two ultraviolet rays (penetrates deepest into the dermis)
  • Plays a greater role in photoaging
  • Damage is not visible to the naked eye
  • Compromises the collagen in the dermis
  • Number one reason for premature wrinkles, stubborn hyperpigmentation, and sagging
  • Approximately 500 times more UVA than UVB rays present in sunlight
  • 80% of UVA damage is derived from daily life activities
  • Penetrates glass

 

UVB

  • Causes burns
  • Most commonly recognized form of ultraviolet radiation
  • Causes the most harm to skin
  • Most responsible for causing dangerous skin cancers
  • Penetrates the dermis and causes skin to tan
  • Reacts with the DNA found in cells, causing damage
  • Intensity of UVB radiation fluctuates depending on the time of day, season, and geographic location
  • Causes damage year-round
  • First sunscreenscreated only protected from UVB rays

 

Although both forms of ultraviolet radiation effect the skin in different waysthe sun can also provide health benefits to the human bodyin appropriate doses. It is crucial that skincare professionals understand bothhow and why the suns radiation effects the human integumentary system,as well as how to accurately educate their clients in order to stay properly protected.

Melanin Must: Sun Protection & People of Color

Warming weather means one is likely to be spending more time outdoors. Caring forskin properly in sunny weather often means pushing past preconceived notions and unclear science to make solid recommendations toclients.

 

PEOPLE OF COLOR & SPF

A very common misconception is that people with darker skin do not need to use sunscreen. While it is true that darker skin does not react to the sun the same way that lighter skin tends to, preventingasunburniscertainlynottheonlyreasontowearsunprotectionproducts.Transepidermalwater loss (TEWL), uneven pigmentation, and photoaging are all plenty of reasons for people of color to wear sun protection. 

In addition to topical sun protection products, it is recommendedthat clients invest in a few pieces of clothing with ultraviolet protectionin them.Clothing with an ultraviolet protection factor of 50 allows 1/50th of rays to pass through it, blocking 49 out of 50 of the rays. Clothing and hats with built-in ultraviolet protection are great for ball games, family reunions, or any outdoor event.

If working with a client of any ethnicity tryingto manage the effects of acne, aging, scarring, wrinkling, pigmentation, rosacea, eczema, or skin sensitivity, the client must be using sunscreen daily. Not wearing sun protection topical while attempting to correct these issues is working against the grain.

 

TITANIUM DIOXIDE & ZINC OXIDE

With the need for sun protection established, how does one know which to choose? There are dozens, maybe hundreds of products out there to choose from.Always go to the ingredient declarations. Be more familiar with the ingredientsa product has than the social media account it was seen on

Forclients, the topicals recommended havezinc oxide or titanium dioxide. These ingredients act by blockingultraviolet rays from entering the skin’s structures. Since ultraviolet A andB rays cannot enter the skin, there isnosignaling for pigmentation or inflammation from heat absorbing chemicals, and there is a much lower risk fortransepidermal water loss in skin. Sensitive skin usually fares better with these active sunscreen ingredients as well.

What makes zinc oxide and titanium dioxide differentfrom other sun protection actives is that they do not work asultraviolet absorbers. Ultraviolet absorbersreceive ultraviolet rays and disperseheat. While that may be helpful for ultraviolet signaling, the heat that is absorbed and dispersed can cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Heat inskin is considered inflammation. Clients concerned with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, aging, acne, transepidermal water losscouperose skin, or eczema shouldlean towardszinc oxide or titanium dioxide.

 

OTHER INGREDIENTS TO LOOK FOR

Understanding the need for sun protection andwhat to look for in the active ingredients section isimportant. In addition to the active ingredients, there are a few other ingredients to look for as well. Hyaluronic acid (hydrator), green tea (anti-inflammatory agent), and squalene (emollient) are great for soothing skin. The sun protection used and recommended should have skin-soothing ingredients in it, whether they are listed above or not.Antioxidants like vitamins C and vitamin B3are always welcomed additions to a sun protection topical as well. Thesecreate a more well-rounded product. 

 

Whether assisting a client regarding a course of treatments, considering personally using sun protection topicals, or having a client that thinks their skin does not need sunscreen, the correct decision is always a high-quality sun protection product.

 

 

 

The Monthly Follow

Each month DERMASCOPE shares a recommendation of the latest aesthetician we cannot seem to get enough of. Our latest favorite to follow is a results-driven skin specialist whose love for skin goes beyond the surface. View @ashely_aesthetics profile and posts and see why DERMASCOPE finds her content clear cut and a perfect measure of skin care with design.

 

Happy May and welcome to another monthly follow that DERMASCOPE recommends.Based in the medical side of the industry, Ashley’s Instagram focuses on sharing educational aspects to custom treatments and facials. Her feed features its fair share of Hydrafacial treatments and satisfying dermaplaning videos. While many skin care professionals’ Instagram feeds are made up of content like this, @ashley_aesthetics dedication to explaining her treatments with care is what sets her apart. The easy breakdowns she shares in her captions provide other skin care professionals and clients alike with solid definitions on treatments and how they are utilized to create stunning results. When scrolling through Ashely’s Instagram, take into consideration the hard work and persistency that goes into posting and staying up-to-date on the latest in the world of skin care professionals on Instagram. With this in mind,take a look at her feed and give your fellow esty a follow!

 

Kojic Acid

Whenever people say, “You can never have too much of a good thing,” they obviously did not consider the ingredientkojic acid. A skin brightener in nature, this organic acidhas been cleared by theCosmetic Ingredient RevieExpert Panel to be used in cosmetic ingredients at the concentration of 4% or less, although it has been on the market since 1955. Depending on if thekojic acid product is intended to be washed off (or used on occasion) or absorbedby skindictateswhere the concentration should land.A good rule of thumb to avoid a possible allergic reaction, irritation, or rashis to keep concentrations around 1% to 2%. If a client has sensitive skin, kojic acid should be slowly introduced into their skin care routine, using the product once or twice a week at first. It should also be noted that long-term use of kojic acid can make any skin type more susceptible to sun damage. 

While it can be used with other brightening and exfoliating ingredients, thecoupling of products increases the chances of undue dryness and irritation, so it is recommended to gradually add additional products containing actives when already utilizing kojic acid. 

A hyperpigmentation superstar,kojic acid is the product of various types of fungi (such as A. flavus, A. oryzae, A. tamarii, and A. parasiticusand is present in certain fermented, Asian foods, such as soy sauce, rice wine, and sakeIt prevents the development of tyrosinethe amino acid responsible for the production of melaninBecause kojic acid works by prevention, it differs from the standard acid that breaks the bonds found between skin cells, stimulating exfoliation.

In addition to its cosmetic advantages, kojic acid has been used to create a nano-carrier system for anti-cancer drug delivery, it generates asubstantialpromotion of cellular turnover, and reduces the growth of tumors.

With its many uses and benefits, it is imperative to investigate the concentrations of kojic acid in any products being sold or used in spa. Additionally, client education is always a must but is especially important when using active ingredientsKeep researching to bring clients the safest and most beautiful results. 

For SPF’s Sake

A classic debate between skin care professionals has always been over sun protection factor. With the insurmountable plethora of sunscreen products on the market, skin care professionals have tested and shared their recommendations for decades. When it comes to physical versus chemical sun protectant factor, the true winner from our recent Instagram poll was clear. With a whopping 83% of the votes for physical sunscreen, the true winner was revealed. Only 17% of skin care professionals voted chemical-based sunscreens as the way to go. 

While skin care professionals should already know that not all sunscreen protectants are created equal, a quick breakdown can refresh one’s ideas on sun protection factor.Physical sunscreens contain active mineral ingredients, like titanium or zinc oxide. These types of sunscreens are less likely to clog pores; however, some can cause a heavy filmy to appear on darker complexions. On the other hand, chemical sunscreens absorb into the skin fully (unlike physical which sits on top of the skin).The downfall of chemical-based sunscreens is their ability to block out ultraviolet rays like their physical-based counterparts

Overall, both types share benefits and most skin care professionals recommend a combination of both or some form that enables the profits of both. Sunscreens are plentiful in the industry of skin carebut choosing the right one for a client can require research, trial and error, and dedication to protect clients’ skin from sun damage and the like. Whichever sunscreen preference is preferred is up to the professional, no matter what an Instagram poll says. Want to be included in this monthly poll? Follow DERMASCOPE on Instagram and stay up-to-date on DERMASCOPE’s Instagram Stories to vote monthly!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basking Beauty: Sun Care & the Client

If a clientwantto protect their body and prevent premature aging, spots, or fine linesand wrinkles, they need to be aware of what is needed to keepskin radiant while also protecting the body.Learning what can be done tokeepclients safe from sun damage is very important, especially for skin care professionals.However, not all sunscreens are created equal nor do allhave the ability to protect clients from the broad-spectrum of hazardous elements in the worldIn fact,some sunscreens may be doing more harm than good. 

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Celeste Hilling 2014With two decades in the beauty and skin care industries, Celeste Hilling is founder, CEO, and product formulator for Skin Authority. Hilling is a respected speaker and media resource on skin care, healthy lifestyles, self-esteem, and business. Skin Authority is respected for developing pure and powerful products without the use of parabens, added fragrance, dyes, or animal testing. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photosensitivity Facets: The Science of the Skin’s Reactions to the Sun

Aestheticians warn clients about the dangers and negative effects of prolonged sun exposureencouraging the use of sunscreen daily, wide brimmed hats, and sunglasses whenever they are outdoors for a long period of time, especially during peak hours. The sun’s ultraviolet light damages the epidermis by reducing its elasticity, which leads to premature aging and in more severe cases, skin cancer. The epidermis contains melanocytes, and these cells producemelanin. Once the skin is exposed to ultraviolet radiation, melanin production increases and is responsible for the tan effect.However, this is actually the skin trying to protect itself from further damage.Melanin contributes to the skin’s color; it is also the same pigment that colors every individual’s hair and eyes.Nevertheless, there are people who are allergic to the sun.It is truly critical to understand photosensitivity, as well as the necessary steps to take in order to protect the skin’s health. 

 

SCIENTIFIC NATURE OF SUN SENSITIVITY

Most clients’ skin will burn if there is enough exposure to ultraviolet radiation.However, some will burneasily or develop exaggerated reactions to sunlight.This condition is called photosensitivity.

If one develops photosensitivity, even limited sun exposure can put them at risk for lasting skin damage and skin cancer.Many can develop dry, red, or itchy inflammation on skin (sometimes including painful blisters and sores) that have been exposed to the sun’s ultraviolet rays.The skin around the chest and arms becomes red and blotchy, and it can take up to a week for the symptoms to clear. This condition is most common in White women with fair skin.In more severe cases, people also report fever, fatigue, and joint pain. A more dramatic sun allergy produces large hives on sun exposed skin. This rare condition is called solar urticaria. If a large enough area of skin has been exposed and develops a reaction, one can go into anaphylactic shock. This occurs when sunlight triggers an abnormal immune response that causes some to have a reaction to the sun.Researchers discovered that Langerhans, a type of immune cellappear to play an important role in photosensitivity.Doctor are looking for a better understanding of the cellular mechanisms involved in photosensitivity to lead to better treatment options.There are two types of sensitivities to be distinguished, including phototoxicity and photoallergy.

 

PHOTOTOXICITY

In phototoxicity, all reactionsonly appear on areas of skin that have been exposed to the sun. They usually develop within hours after sun exposure.

Some may report pain and develop redness withinflammation alongside discoloration ofskin. Their symptoms resemble a sunburn; however,it differs because individuals report the symptoms after taking certain medications.

Some common types of phototoxic drugs include:

  • Tetracyclines: antibiotics used to treat urinary tract and respiratory infections
  • Doxycycline: a common acne medication
  • Antihistamines like Benadryl 
  • Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS) like aspirin and ibuprofen
  • Chemotherapy drugs and cancer drugs 
  • Cardiac drugs
  • Statins: cholesterol lowering drugs like Lipitor and Rosuvastatin (Crestor)
  • Diuretics (hydrochlorothiazide and Lasix): water pills, used mainly to treat high blood pressure by helping the body get rid of salt and water
  • Diabetic drugs (glyburide): used to lower blood sugar levels
  • Psychiatric drugs: antidepressants like Zoloft, Paxil, and Trazodone 
  • Anti-fungal drugs (fluconazole and ketoconazole): used to treat skin infections like ringworm, athletes’ foot, jock itch, and nail infections

It should be noted that not everyone taking any of these drugs will develop reactions. Certain individuals have more susceptibility to these medications than others. 

 

Ultraviolet rays interact with the ingredients in these medications; it is not just an oral reaction.Sometimes products applied directly to the skin can become activated by exposure to sunlight.For example, topical retinol can cause the skin to become more sensitive to ultraviolet rays.The body’s immune system recognizes changes caused by sun exposure as a foreign threat. The body produces antibodies and attacks, causing a reaction, and enhances the risk of sunburns and photo damage to the skin.It is an aesthetician’s job to research their client’s medications and the side effects either through written or verbal consultation

 

PHOTOALLERGIC REACTIONS

With photoallergic reactionsthere may be redness, scaling, itching, and sometimes blisters and spots that look like hives.It generally presents itself like a rash and looks similar toa sunburn or eczema.Blisters may also appear and the area is often painful and hot.This type of reaction can be caused by certain chemical compounds found in products like perfumes, lotionsand even some sunscreens. This happens after the person has used the product and has been exposed to sunlight. The sunlight is what makes the substance capable of triggering the photoallergy.Photoallergic reactions can also affect areas of skin that have not been exposed to the sun. They usually develop 24 to 72 hours after sun exposure.Having other skin issues like dermatitis and rosacea also increases the riskof an individual having a sun allergy. 

 

PHOTOSENSITIVITY DIAGNOSED

Up to 60 % of people who suffer from certain autoimmune diseases also suffer from photosensitivity. Diseases like lupus, where the body attacks its own cells and organs; multiple sclerosis (MS), affecting the brain and spinal cordand sclerodermachronic hardening and tightening of the skin and connective tissuesare just a few of them. 

To diagnose a sun allergy, doctors perform an ultraviolet light testing to see how skin reacts to different wavelengths of ultraviolet light from a special lamp.They may also conduct a photo patch test to see if the sun allergy is caused by a topical product before exposing the area to the sun. Common triggers are applied to the skin and, after a day, the area receives a dose of ultraviolet rays from a sun lamp to see if there is a reaction in the light-exposed area. Finally, sometimes blood tests are taken to rule out autoimmune diseases that can cause some to react to the sun. 

 Some fruits and vegetables may cause sun sensitivity if they come into contact with the skinPhytophotodermatitis is a condition caused by a toxic reaction when certain plant chemicals put on the skin are exposed to sunlight (phyto means plantand photo means light).Lime juice contains the chemical compound psoralen.1Other plants such as celery root, parsley parsnips, mango peel, and figs also contain psoralen.

Phytophotodermatitis can closely resemble contact dermatitis or a chemical burn. This condition is also colloquially called Bartender’s dermatitis – for when a bartender at an outdoor function in the summer sun gets lime juice on their hands, andthey suffer a lime juice burn while preparing cocktails.

 

INGREDIENTS TO AVIOD DURING THE SUMMER

A photosensitive ingredient is sensitive to light. It oxidizes and deteriorates when it meets the sun.The product’s color, texture, or fragrance could change, and it may lose some of its properties. Vitamin C is photosensitive and neutralizes free radicals and prevents photoaging.There have been experiments with vitamin C serums where the bottle is left in the sunlight and the clear color of the liquid will change to an orange shade.Both alpha hydroxy acid(glycolic, lactic, citric, malic, and mandelic) and beta hydroxy acid (salicylic) are neither photosensitive nor photosensitizing, but clients should avoid them before going out in the sun.These acids work to exfoliate the dead skin cells on the epidermis.Using products with alpha hydroxy acids or beta hydroxy acids and then going in the sun will make the skin much more vulnerable to ultraviolet rays. This means that if one uses acids without properly protecting the skin, they will burn more easily. The same thing occurs with retinolas well.

 

TREATMENTS TO AVIOD

Chemical peels and laser treatments should be avoided for clients with sun allergies because of increased sun sensitivity. Chemical peels promote the growth of a new, healthy top layer of skin to improve issues like hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, and uneven texture.Direct sun exposure and excessive heat should be avoided.If a clientlight sensitivity is drug induced, there are many common medications that can cause the skin to be extremely sensitive to the light of the laser when they are taking the medication. The skin could react negatively if the client is taking a photosensitive medication and having laser hair removal treatments.When a client is planning to start laser hair removal, it is important to let the practitioner know every single drug they are takingduring the consultation.All medications have side effects. If taking a medication that has a side effect of light sensitivity,clients should not have laser hair removal treatments.

 

UTILIZING PROTECTIVE SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS

Using a broad-spectrumsunscreen can reduce the risk of sun sensitivities.It is also important to remind clients to stay out of direct sunlight between the hours of 10 a.m. to fourp.m. when ultraviolet rays are especially intense.This can occur at higher altitudes and around snow or water.If one is going to be outdoors for longer than a few minutes (even on cloudy days),use a sunscreen with a sun protection factor of at least 30 that blocks both UVA and UVB rays. It should be applied liberally, especially on the face, neck, forehead, and ears about 20-minutes before going outdoors. Even water-resistant sunscreens should be reapplied about every 80-minutes after swimming or strenuous activity.

Sunbathers often assume they get twice as much protection from SPF 100 sunscreen overSPF 50however, the extra protection is negligible.Properly applied SPF 50 sunscreens block98of UVB rays; SPF 100 blocks 99%.When used correctly, sunscreen with SPF values between 30 and 50 offers adequate sunburn protection, even for those who are most sensitive to sunburn. 

Those who are photosensitive are told to gradually increase the amount of time they spend outdoors sotheir skin cells have time to adapt to sunlight.It is also extremely important to use the right sunscreen.Ultraviolet rays are made up of UVA and UVB rays, but UVA rays trigger sun-induced skin disorders. Retail sunscreen that contains ingredients like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, which block both types of rays.Even people with dark skin benefit from this type of sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30. Remember that sunscreen and sun avoidance decrease the incidence of cancer and unevenness of pigmentation in people of all skin colors. 

 

IMPLEMENTING HOMECARE

Those who experience a reaction to the sun can suffer for days. In many cases, their skin is raw, irritated, and sensitive to touch.They are told to use cool, wet compresses on aggravated areas to avoid scratching.Cool or lukewarm baths and gentle, fragrance-free cleansers are recommended. Oatmeal baths and calamine lotion are also encouraged to relieve symptoms for people who have serious reactions.Immediately after bathing, recommend clients to use a gentle, hypoallergenic moisturizing cream to soothe skin. Treatment can also include using a steroid cream like hydrocortisone or taking an oral antihistamine like Benadryl to deal with the allergic response in the body.Vinegar soaks (one teaspoon of white vinegar to one cup of cold water) every 20 minutes, every three to six hours are also recommended.Dip cotton squares in the vinegar solution and apply directly on affected areas.Ice may also be applied directly on top of the vinegar solution.Doctors also encourage clients who suffer from photosensitivity to gradually increase how their body reacts to sunlight and to wear polarized sunglasses to cut down on the glare when outside. 

 

PROTECTION FROM SKIN CANCER

The damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation do not happen overnight.It is an accumulation of heavy sun exposure over the years that is responsible for the risk of developing skin cancer.The risks increase with two main factors: the amount of time spent under the sun and the intensity of radiation (the time of day, the location, and the reflection from surfaces).For those who are photosensitive, even on short-term basis, occasional sun exposure puts them at risk.Childhood sun exposure may also play an important part in the development of these cancers later in adult life. 

If a client is photosensitive,they may be at risk for lasting skin damage and skin cancer from even limited exposure to ultraviolet radiation.Constant exposure to sunlight causes an increased chance of developing one of the forms of skin cancer, like basal cell carcinomaand cutaneous malignant melanoma. High levels of chronic exposure to ultraviolet rays are more often associated with squamous cell tumors.

 

Basal Cell Cancer

Basal cell cancer is usually found in areas of the skin exposed to sunlight.This type of skin cancer appears as a raised, hard, and red wound often found on the forehead, eyelids, cheeks, nose, and lips.Basal cell cancer usually does notspreadand most cases are easily treated and cured.

 

Squamous Cell Cancer 

Squamous cell cancer occurs most frequently on the skin exposed to sunlight over longer periods of time. This type of skin cancer tends to develop where maximum exposure to radiation occurs, like the forehead, cheeks, nose, lips, and ears. It also usually develops in areas where the skin has already been damaged by the sun, like in areas with hyperpigmentation and sunspots. The blemishes develop into rough, scaly patches with small areas of open wounds that do notheal. If caught in timethis type of cancer can be removed with a good chance of recovery.

 

Malignant Melanoma 

Malignant melanoma is the most serious of the skin cancers. It is the rarest form and often shows itself as a mole or pigment spot that begins to bleed, grow, or change in color, shape, or texture. It usually spreads if not treated in the early stage.Brief intense exposure to strong sunlight appears to increase the risk of malignant melanoma in people who cannot handle strong sunlight (photosensitive). If caught early, malignant melanoma can be treated and cured. However, if treatment is delayed, this type of cancer is often fatal.

 

 

Every year, the clocks are turned forward to signal a new season of longer days and sunlight. This brings more picnics in the park, outdoor sports, and days lounging at the beach.However, those who suffer from sun sensitivity actually dread this time of year.For them it is a stressful time that causes major embarrassment. The frequency and severity of a sun allergy varies from person to person.Clients should see a doctor if unusual skin reactions are spotted after spending time in the sun, especially if symptoms persist. 

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Annette Hanson 2019Annette Hanson is the founder of Atelier Esthétique Institute of Esthetics in Manhattan, a New York state licensing, NACCAS-accredited skin care school, post-graduate facility, and the first United States aesthetics college to be recognized by London’s International Therapy Examination Council (ITEC). Her professional experience spans more than 30 years as a Paris-trained aesthetician, waxing specialist, body therapist, salon manager, and spa consultant. She was instrumental in the development of the 600-hour curriculum for the New York state aesthetics license, as well as the written and practical exam. She was inducted into the Aesthetics International Association (A.I.A.) industry legends in August 2009 by DERMASCOPE Magazine.  

 

 

 

 

Microneedling for Hyperpigmentation Treatment

Microneedling is most well-known for its antiaging benefits popularized by Kim Kardashian’s vampire facial, but it can also be beneficial in managing hyperpigmentation. As a relatively new treatment, microneedling shows promising results for skin rejuvenation, as well as the correction of hyperpigmentation. In each case, the desired result of treatment will determine the depth and method used. There are currently three different microneedling methods on the market – rollers, electric pens, and microneedling with radiofrequency.

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Rachel File newRachel File is a bachelor’s prepared registered nurse, licensed aesthetician, and owner of Beauty Ritual Skincare in Fort Myers, Florida. File has had a passion for the beauty and medical field for more than a decade. Her desire to help clients improve their skin through medical knowledge and her extensive experience has resulted in optimal results for the empirically supported treatments she utilizes. Understanding the science behind aesthetic treatments helps maximize their effectiveness. As a science-based aesthetic practitioner, she understands the importance of keeping abreast of the research in skincare. Education is a driving force behind the development of her practice, and she hopes to spread awareness of the processes behind aesthetic treatments in her field. 

 

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