When most people hear the word urea, they often immediately think of urine. It is not surprising, therefore, that the notion of using urea in skin care products is often met with looks of shock and astonishment. While it is true that the kidneys transfer urea from the blood to the urine, urea – along with lactic acid and amino acids – is a major component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor. It is an important part of helping the skin maintain a healthy moisture balance because it is extremely hydrating. In fact, dry skin has markedly reduced amounts of urea. Dry skin conditions, as well as eczema and ichthyosis, can be significantly improved with urea creams. Urea was the first organic chemical compound ever synthesized. In 1828, Friedrich Wohler, a German chemist, accidentally made urea when attempting to make ammonium cyanate from silver cyanide and ammonium chloride. He wrote, "I must tell you that I can make urea without the use of kidneys, either man or dog. Ammonium cyanate is urea."1 Today, topical preparations containing urea come in several forms and strengths. It can be found in creams, lotions, shampoos, and body washes. There is another ingredient, however, that is often confused with urea: diazolidinyl urea, a formaldehyde-releasing preservative. The form of urea used in skin care products is known as hydroxyethyl urea and is safe for the face when used in formulations at less than three percent. Higher percentages are useful when formulating products for improving dry skin conditions on the body and other conditions. For example, pharmacists make a 40 percent solution that is used to treat black hairy tongues, severe acne, and diseased nails. THE BENEFITS OF UREAHygroscopic and Permeability CapacityUrea is an extremely water-loving humectant; it attracts water and prevents transepidermal water loss. Hydrated skin allows performance ingredients to penetrate further, faster, and correctly. Kerotolytic and Wound Healing AbilityUrea is a natural exfoliant that softens the horny layer of skin cells to improve cellular turnover and provide the skin with younger and plumper cells. By encouraging cellular regeneration, urea can speed up the wound healing process. Regenerative Skin Barrier Function, Protection, and Inflammatory Relief PotentialA properly balanced hydrolipidic acid mantle regenerates appropriately and biologically prevents inflammation and irritation to the skin. Urea can offer instant relief to dry and inflamed skin, making it great for sensitive skin. There is an old industry saying: It is not whether an ingredient is bad or good, it is whether that ingredient is useful and/or appropriate for the skin being treated; is it being used in the proper formulation, at the right pH, and at the appropriate percentage? If so, say yes to urea! References1 Myers, R. L. (2007). 95. Uracil. In The 100 Most Important Chemical Compounds: A reference guide (p. 288). Westport, CT: Greenwood Press.Want to read more? Subscribe to one of our monthly plans to continue reading this article.