In the diverse world of aesthetics, understanding the unique needs of melanin-rich skin isn’t just an option – it is a necessity. Melanin is the pigment that gives skin its rich color, and it also plays a crucial role in how skin reacts to treatments, trauma, and even time. For skin care professionals, knowing when to treat confidently and when to refer clients to a dermatologist is critical to providing the best care possible.

THE MELANIN-RICH SKIN SPECTRUM

Understanding the melanin-rich spectrum is everything. Melanin-rich skin refers to a wide range of skin tones, from olive to deep brown. Beyond race or ethnicity, skin that is considered melanin-rich has more active melanocytes — the cells responsible for producing melanin, which means it can be more prone to certain skin issues, such as hyperpigmentation and keloids. Having a good grasp of this is the first step in providing tailored skin care.

GREEN LIGHT

There are several instances where professionals are green lit to proceed and offer our clients the best treatment plan and care to support them in achieving optimal skin results. Here are some of the top concerns and professional tips where we should move with confidence: 

The Bread & Butter

Hyperpigmentation is considered one of the most common concerns among clients with melanin-rich skin. Uneven skin tone, dark spots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) are among the usual suspects. These concerns are often treatable within the clinic or spa setting. Gentle chemical peels, vitamin C serums, and niacinamide are some go-to, hero ingredients to employ here. When used correctly, these can help brighten skin without causing further damage.

Hyperpigmentation Pro Tip

Avoid aggressive exfoliants and peels that could trigger more pigmentation. Think progressive over aggressive. Opt for treatments like lactic acid peels or cocktail blends of hydroxy acids that are gentler and better suited for melanin-rich skin.

Handle with Care

Acne doesn’t discriminate, but melanin-rich skin can be much more sensitive to the aftermath, with scarring and dark spots (PIH) often sticking around longer. In fact, studies reveal that clients with melanin-rich skin exhibit hidden erythema, leading to more persistent scarring. Mild-to-moderate acne can usually be managed with some top favourites like salicylic acid or azelaic acid, but the focus should be on preventing marks. Treatments like LED therapy, which reduces inflammation and helps prevent future breakouts, are brilliant considerations.

Acne & Scarring Pro Tip

For acne scars, microneedling can be effective but requires a careful approach. Ensure that the needle depth is appropriate to avoid post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Essential for Everyone

Maintaining the skin barrier is the underpinning to every effective treatment. Particularly with melanin-rich skin, this is often forgotten. Studies reveal that clients with melanin-rich skin can be more prone to transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Moisturizers rich in ceramides and hyaluronic acid can help skin remain hydrated and resilient. Regular treatments focusing on hydration, such as low and high molecule hyaluronic acid facials and masks, can be quite effective.

Barrier Repair & Hydration Pro Tip

Encourage clients to avoid the use of stripping cleansers and overuse of astringents that can deplete skin’s natural moisture function.

RED FLAGS

Professionals must expect that there will be times, however temporary or long term, when clients’ skin concerns expand our reach and expertise. This is not a negative reflection on nonmedical aesthetic professionals but rather, an indicator of a well-informed professional that knows the boundaries of effective treatments. Consider what is best for your client at that time. Here are the top four concerns and why referring that client is the best approach:

Severe Acne & Cystic Breakouts

While solutions for mild acne is within your everyday treatment arsenal, severe acne, especially cystic, should prompt a referral to a dermatologist. These conditions can lead to extensive scarring and hyperpigmentation due to their systemic nature. These may require prescription-strength treatments or procedures.

Dermatologists can prescribe stronger medications like retinoids, antibiotics, or isotretinoin, which are often necessary for controlling severe acne and preventing long-term skin damage. If ice-pick, rolled, or box scars are present, a cosmetic dermatologist can also perform subcision treatments (lifting the dermis from underneath).

Charmaine Cooper, known as The Skin Theologian, is an award-winning international speaker, author, and educator with 28 years in the industry. Renowned for her passion and ability to connect with diverse audiences, she has trained skin professionals and educators globally for over 24 years. Cooper’s work emphasizes skin health equity and cultural intelligence, particularly for melanin-rich skin. A recipient of the 2024 Aestheticians’ Choice Award for favorite contributor and author of the acclaimed “No Compromise Black Skin Care Guide” series and “Melanin-Rich,” she continues to inspire through her international webinars, media engagements, and transformative workshops. Connect with her on Instagram @theskintheologian.