Business

Watt’s the Plan? Handling Power Outages 

Under Construction: Choosing the Best Website Builder for a Skin Care Business 

Employee to Entrepreneur: Preparing for Success 

More Skills, More Clients 

Beauty

In the Trend of Things: Upcoming Aesthetics Trends 

Greenlighting Sustainability: Biotechnology & the Future of Sustainable Beauty

Lip Service: The Top 10 Lip Tips of 2023

In the Land of Lashes

Body

Light Work: Enhancing Outcomes & Growing Incomes with LED Light Therapy 

The Sun Never Sets  

The Brightside of Skin Health 

 A Guide to Body Brightening: Treatments & Ingredients 

Beyond Skin Care: The Art of Intention In The Treatment Room

In todays fast-paced and demanding world, people are increasingly seeking ways to escape the hustle and bustle of their daily lives. Skin care professionals offer a refuge where clients can relax, rejuvenate, and indulge in self-care. The key to elevating the client experience lies in building an intentional experience that caters to the holistic needs of clients, touching on each of their five senses.

INTENTIONALITY & BRAND IDENTITY

From the moment they step through the spa doors, clients should be welcomed into a space where every detail has been thoughtfully considered to provide a sense of comfort and relaxation. This includes an easy check-in process, being prepared for clients, stocked retail shelves, and refreshments, even if just a bottle of water – memories are often attached to emotional experiences. Carefully chosen color schemes, soothing music, calming scents, and comfortable treatment tables work together to create the client experience and ultimately help build the spa’s brand identity

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From Birth to Final Breath, Part II: Skin Physiology

Many functions of skin that begin to slow down around age 40 become more visible and more problematic into the 50s. Depending on an individual’s ethnicity, skin changes that appear with aging may not be as evident. The signs of aging on darker skin often does not appear as rapidly as they do on lighter skin tones. The darker skin is, the thicker it is, and it has more natural protection from ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B rays due to the melanin content. Genetics also play a large role in how quickly skin ages.

40S & 50S 

Collagen is the most abundant protein in skin and one of the most important. However, collagen production decreases by approximately 38% in one’s early 50s. This becomes more and more evident as the appearance of lines and wrinkles on skin increases and as skin’s plumpness diminishes. Women in this age group are normally experiencing menopause, which causes their level of estrogen to diminish and in turn, affects glycosaminoglycans, collagen, and elastin. Due to hormonal imbalances, the visible signs of skin aging are accelerated. Most women also experience hot flashes, which can further exacerbate any pre-existing vascular redness. In some cases, as testosterone becomes more dominant, the lipidic production may increase, causing blemishes to appear.  

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In an era where environmental consciousness has become an integral part of daily life, sustainability is no longer a mere buzzword. It is a call to action. The skin care industry, driven by innovation and an unwavering pursuit of beauty, is no exception. Beyond the promises of radiant skin found in lotions, serums, and creams, this industry is undergoing a profound transformation, recognizing the paramount importance of sustainability across all its operations. The global skin care market, which reached an astounding $146.7 billion in size in 20211, is particularly influenced by personal choices when it comes to purchasing, and these choices wield significant environmental influence due to their sheer volume.

In a world increasingly conscious of environmental issues, sustainability has emerged as a central concern across various industries. However, the skin care industry stands out as an area where the impact of sustainability choices is readily visible. This article explores skin care sustainability’s importance, challenges in ingredient sourcing and packaging, and offers guidance for professionals to align with sustainability standards, including innovative packaging alternatives and product selection.

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Brittany Facio is an Arizona-based master aesthetics educator and expert storyteller. At AlumierMD, she puts her 15 years of varied experience to work as a global content development lead. She is passionate about how proper aesthetics education, sophisticated protocol implementation, and subject matter expertise can create life-changing encounters. She finds harmony in her life by enjoying leisure time with her family, exercising, and relishing the food her chef-husband makes her. She and her husband have been blessed with four amazing children. They have also rescued several fur and feather babies including their German shepherd, Hurk; cat, Luna; cockatiel, Sunny; and two backyard chickens.

Conventional skin care practices often overlook the importance of maintaining a healthy balance within the body, which is crucial for promoting healthy skin. Popular trends such as medium-depth peels, harsh foaming cleansers, and dermablading can all disrupt the body’s ability to fight off harmful pathogens and bacteria. The acid mantle, a thin film on skin’s outer layer with an average pH of 5.5, plays a vital role in maintaining this balance. Educating others on the importance of preserving the acid mantle's integrity is essential in protecting skin. 

THE ACID MANTLE BREAKDOWN

The acid mantle is a combination of sweat and sebum secretions mixed with amino acids, lactic acid, fatty acids, and more. This blend creates a mildly acidic environment that serves as skin’s primary defense against potential irritants, such as bacteria, viruses, and pollution. The acidity also restricts the growth of harmful microbes that prefer a more neutral pH. When the acid mantle is compromised, which can occur when skin’s pH rises or falls, it can lead to various skin problems such as acne, eczema, and infections.

A healthy acid mantle is essential for many vital functions. It helps skin retain moisture and nutrients, keeping it hydrated and nourished. The acidic environment helps key skin proteins maintain their optimal structure, such as ceramides that need to be structurally sound to form a protective barrier. The acidity also promotes desquamation, the shedding of dead skin cells to reveal fresh new ones, which is driven by enzymes that require a lower pH to activate properly.

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Twenty years ago, while working as an aesthetician, Justine Kahn discovered the need for individualized skin care solutions, as unique as fingerprints. This revelation ignited a passion for understanding skin’s complexities and nature's nurturing secrets. Out of this passion, Botnia was born, which has bloomed from humble beginnings in her kitchen to a thriving practice rooted in her garden. Today, Botnia stands proud, transformed from a cozy basement operation to a full-fledged lab, partnering with over 200 spas nationwide. 

Cosmetic Code: Natural Ingredients & Product Labels

Proper product labeling is paramount to both the product manufacturer and the consumer. Survey findings show that 61% of women were committed to reading product labels prior to their purchase of skin care products. Furthermore, 68% to 78% of women ages 18 to 54 want skin care made from natural ingredients, stimulating the need to read product labels.1 To meet this demand ethically, product manufacturers need to create product labels that comply to industry standards, as delineated by the FDA Cosmetics Labeling Guide.

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Lydia Sarfati is an international industry leader, with over 46 years of experience as a spa owner, consultant, and aesthetician. She is the Founder/CEO of Repêchage, pioneers of seaweed-based  treatments, is the President of CIDESCO Section U.S.A, the world's major international beauty therapy association and a CIDESCO International Diplomate. She appears at industry trade shows, is the author of Success at Your Fingertips: How to Succeed in the Skin Care Business and The Repêchage® Book of Skincare Science & Protocols, and is a contributing author to textbooks such as The Milady Standard Esthetics: Fundamentals, Twelfth Edition, and Oncology Esthetics.

Spa owners have a lot of decisions to make regarding product inventory and management. Decisions regarding backbar and retail products can be overwhelming given the sheer magnitude of options available, and the thoughtful balance between ingredients, brand recognition, availability, efficacy, costs, and client demand is essential. Skin care specialists are expected to serve as knowledgeable client resources, providing expertise on a variety of products, lines, ingredients, and formulations. 

GROWING PAINS

Given the global growth in the skin care market, this is no easy feat. The global skin care market size was valued at $146.7 billion in 2021 and is projected to reach $273.3 billion by 2031, growing at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 6.7% from 2022 to 2031.1 Sales of skin care products grew by 13% last year in the United States, while makeup grew by only 1% in the same period. Online beauty retailers grew 24% in that time, with skin care leading the way. American women spend nearly a quarter of a million dollars on their appearance in their lifetime, new research reveals. The women surveyed, who said they routinely spend money on their appearance, spend an average of $3,756 a year (or $313 a month), which adds up to $225,360 throughout their entire lifetime (ages 18 to 78). Male respondents spend an average of $2,928 per year (or $244 a month), totaling $175,680 or about one-fourth (22%) less than women throughout their lifetime.

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Lila Castellanos has focused her energies into the beauty industry for the past 19 years, specializing in skin rejuvenation. As a licensed aesthetician, she has lent her expertise to several different environments including working as a paramedical aesthetician in the medical spa field as well as in both day spa and mobile spa business models. It was through these varied experiences, along with the interactions with her loyal clientele, that she honed her passion for improving and maintaining the health and integrity of her clients’ skin. Castellanos thrives on being able to use her extensive knowledge to customize each treatment to help her clients achieve the results they are searching for. Her adaptability and versatility are equally impressive in providing antiaging facials, treating acne, and minimizing the appearance of scarring or when addressing skin conditions that arise as a result of hormonal changes. 

Global Growth: The Medical Spa Market 

In A Tale of Two Cities, Charles Dickens famously wrote, “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times,” and for the global medical spa industry, this couldn’t be a truer statement. People across the globe are tightening their purse strings and closely watching where their money goes. Yet, the global medical spa market is projecting a 14.6% compound annual growth rate (CAGR) through 2032, making this the best of times. According to Global Industry Analysts, Inc., the United States medical spa market is projected to grow at 13.5% over the next decade. China’s market is forecast at a compound annual growth rate of 18.2% through 2027 while Japan is forecast at 10.3% and Canada at 12.2%. Germany’s growth is a standout in Europe with an estimated compound annual growth rate of 11.2%.

 

MEDSPA MONEY FLOW

The 2023 trends show people are investing their money in themselves and in small indulgences rather than larger ticket items. For the medical spa industry this is excellent news, especially as medical spas are focused more on complete client health and wellness journeys. Advances in skin care technology and increased awareness of antiaging products among potential clients are helping drive medical spa growth. Prevention is a big market, and skin care professionals are in the right place at the right time. Make educated decisions when it comes to purchasing expensive equipment and survey clients first when necessary.

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Internationally recognized aesthetic business development expert, Cheryl Whitman, is the founder and CEO of Beautiful Forever Consulting. She is a sought-after speaker and industry marketing specialist who assists physicians and medical spas in creating new profit centers, developing profitable private label product lines, ghost writing articles and eBooks, and identifying and executing new business strategies aimed at improving their bottom line. A celebrated author, Whitman’s turnkey educational system, “Aesthetic Medical Success System,” has assisted clients in opening or jumpstarting their current businesses. Her second book, “Beautifully Profitable, Forever Profitable,” provides solid, practical information on how to create, launch, and grow successful aesthetic medical practices and related businesses.

Plant Power: 5 Underappreciated Regenerative Plants in Skin Care

Nature has many beauty cures. Plants, herbs, and flowers are the foundation, main ingredient, or synthetic ingredient in some of the best skin care products on the market. Many herbs are underutilized. This article covers some plant-based skin-regenerating ingredients as well as the underappreciated benefits of plant power.

ROSEMARY 

Rosemary grows almost everywhere, making it a plant that is widely sustainable. An ingredient is beneficial when it can be easily replaced once removed. For centuries, rosemary has been used to treat wounds and acne. It is an underutilized antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties derived from carnosol or carnosic and ursolic acids. These acids are used in traditional medicine, pharmacy, and cosmetics, which is why many do not think of rosemary as anything other than a natural preservative, atmospheric scent, or kitchen ingredient. With inflammation at the root of almost every skin condition and concern, an anti-inflammatory ingredient like rosemary is critical to any practice. Historically, rosemary has been used to treat inflammatory diseases, wounds, skin cancer, and mycoses. Rosemary has also been implemented to treat cellulite, baldness, ultraviolet ray damage, aging, and a variety of other pathological and nonpathological conditions. It is currently being studied as a treatment for a variety of cancers, including skin cancer, with promising results. Rosemary contains polyphenols, diterpenes, and flavonoids, all of which play important roles in fighting both extrinsic and intrinsic aging. According to some studies, the diterpenes carnosol and carnosic acid account for up to 90% of rosemary’s antioxidant activity. In vivo studies have shown that rosemary reduces oxidative stress and inflammation in the gastrointestinal tract, which aids in skin health by removing inflammation that can transfer from the gut to skin through the circulatory system. Rosemary has also been linked to the treatment of fungal skin conditions and acne due to its antifungal, antiviral, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. Rosemary has been used successfully in both eastern and western medicine to treat neurological, cardiovascular, gastrointestinal, genitourinary, menstrual, hepatic, reproductive, respiratory, and other skin disorders. Rosemary’s antiplatelet activity regulates sebum and skin and protects and soothes skin conditions such as impaired barrier, eczema, psoriasis, acne, atopic dermatitis, and other chronic inflammatory conditions. 

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Sash Moreaux has been a licensed aesthetician since 2006, a licensed aesthetics instructor since 2017, and CEO and founder of Meaux Co Pro LLC. In this phase of her aesthetics journey, Moreaux leads a team of licensed aestheticians providing free and low-cost advanced skin care education and mentoring to other licensed professionals. A big believer in supporting the aesthetician community and respecting all humans and mother earth, Moreaux supports the aesthetics community with wholesale pricing and no minimum orders, including free mentoring and small batch, handmade skin care that is earth loving and sustainable. All her mentors and educators are licensed as well; she believes skin care advice should come from a professional. Moreaux holds college education from Missouri State University and Arizona State University as well as licensing and certification from Missouri College of Esthetics.   

New Age Aesthetics 

The origins of modern new age practices are typically very old, yet they bring fresh, enigmatic energy into the realm of holistic skin care. Skin is the largest organ of the body and is often reflective of the body’s internal environment. This environment is often unbalanced by stress, emotional trauma, and physical ailments that affect overall well-being. Therefore, it is imperative for aesthetics providers to look beyond skin and into the client at hand. This is the basis of holistic skin care and the pillar of modern new age practices. The treatment-room integration of these practices generally encompasses holistic techniques, such as reiki, Traditional Chinese Medicine, gemstone therapy, sound baths, and other immersive practices. 

UNDERSTANDING ENERGIES 

When discussing new age practices within aesthetics, it is important to understand the basis of energetic well-being. Many of the practices have ancient origins throughout the world that focus on the flow of energy within the body. This flow of energy is part of a complicated, ever-moving system, not unlike the cardiovascular system in some ways. Energy flows from the top of the head, circulating around the spine, through the fingertips, and down to the feet. The energy within the body is commonly thought to travel along pathways or channels, flowing from point to point, attracted to where it is needed. Many of the energetic healing modalities focus on the theory that these energy channels can be blocked, causing poor homeostasis within the body – working to unblock this energy can lead to increased health and well-being. 

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Kristen N.M. Johnson is an award-winning, published nurse educator, integrative wellness consultant, and executive director of The Eclipse Spa in Maryland. She serves on The Board of Directors for The Nursing Foundation of Maryland in addition to her consultant work. With more than a decade of experience in holistic health and integrative wellness, Johnson is passionate about the health, beauty, and wellness industry. Prior to the release of her first book, “Waterwell Integrative Wellness Guide + Planning Journal,” Johnson established the WellGuided Foundation, a program developed for the support of registered nurses through self-care to achieve greater health and well-being. 

Camp Corneotherapy

Skin is a complex and dynamic ecosystem beginning with the microbiome and acid mantle inhabited by bacteria, archaea, fungi, and viruses. Collectively, these microbes are referred to as the skin microbiota and are essential to skin physiology and immunity. The skin microbiome is a doorway to the external environment and is a complex habitat that is greatly influenced by the biodiversity of the unique ecosystems present on skin. The microbiome varies in each area of the body. There is a symbiotic relationship with microbiota that play an integral role in the maturation and homeostatic regulation of keratinocytes and immunity with systemic implications. Skin microbial populations play a significant role in health and disease and modulate due to intrinsic and extrinsic factors.1

Skin is a protective structure between the body and the environment with built-in defense mechanisms that survey, react, respond, regulate, and detect environmental fluctuations within and outside of cells. Skin encompasses abundant adaptive mechanisms to restore itself quickly to structural and functional integrity. The health of the entire body, including skin, relies on its ability to carry out cellular immune surveillance and response to microbial intruders, conduct biological repair, monitor trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and barrier defense systems and function, maintain cell-to-cell communication and signaling, and rebuild tissue systems to maintain a continual state of homeostasis. Dermatological research and studies confirm that numerous signal functions influence important controls in the epidermis that begin with or are triggered in the stratum corneum.2 All epidermal and dermal components must remain a sustainable force for cellular regeneration, tissue building, pH, homeostasis, and overall health and appearance. 

Assaults to the stratum corneum can interfere with its natural metabolic ability and function of maintaining a strong barrier. Consistent overexposure to ultraviolet rays, environmental fluences, wounding, lifestyle habits, poor nutrition, disease, allergens, and more compromise this barrier. Overuse of cosmetic products may cause a low trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and excessive aggressive treatments could compromise the barrier as well. The proper approach to skin conditions requires a deeper understanding and analysis to recognize subtle symptoms. How should professionals proceed with preventative or remedial interventions that support improvement and lead to a healthier skin? 

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Alexandra J. Zani is an international educator, licensed instructor, speaker, author, and researcher in the professional skin care industry. She is on the Education Commission of the IAC (International Association of Applied Corneotherapy), a faculty member of DermaEducation TV for postgraduate education, and NCEA nationally certified. Her career has included business ownership and management, consulting, product development, and authoring textbooks and industry trade publications. Her academic background includes cell biology and medical technology. Zani has received numerous advanced certifications, both in the United States and abroad, in the dermal sciences, oncology aesthetics, microcurrent, LED, and non-ablative laser. Zani is the owner of AEsthani Skincare Institute, LLC in Greenville, South Carolina.

The LDM Legacy  

Manual lymphatic drainage was developed in the late 1800s by Dr. Andrew Taylor Still, who is now considered the father of osteopathic medicine. He initially followed in his father’s footsteps by studying and training to become a physician with a typical, frontier medical practice. However, after the loss of his first wife and four children, coupled with his grim experiences in the American Civil War, he rejected most of what he had learned about medicine and searched for new and better methods. His explorations and research led to the development of a new system of healing. He believed the key was to find and correct anatomical deviations that interfered with the free flow of blood and nerve force in the body. His theories led to the founding of The American School of Osteopathy (ASO) in Kirksville, Missouri in 1892.1  

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Lila Castellanos has focused her energies into the beauty industry for the past 19 years, specializing in skin rejuvenation. As a licensed aesthetician, she has lent her expertise to several different environments, including working as a paramedical aesthetician in the medical spa field as well as in both day spa and mobile spa business models. It was through these varied experiences, along with the interactions with her loyal clientele, that she honed her passion for improving and maintaining the health and integrity of her clients’ skin. Castellanos thrives on being able to use her extensive knowledge to customize each treatment to help her clients achieve the results they are searching for. Her adaptability and versatility are equally impressive in providing antiaging facials, treating acne, and minimizing the appearance of scarring or when addressing skin conditions that arise as a result of hormonal changes.  

Pinch of Salt: Diet & Skin Health

Skin is the largest organ of the body. Protecting it from outside pollutants and chemicals can be a challenge, but what gets eaten each day makes an even bigger difference. It should come as no surprise that diet can influence skin health in a positive way. What you eat and how you prepare your food can either make or break a complexion.  

CONTROLLING SKIN CONCERNS 

Common skin concerns such as acne, eczema, melasma and rosacea can be controlled by simply changing how and what you eat. One fact these concerns have in common is that they’re all triggered by inflammation.  

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Sharon Subdhan is a licensed aesthetician and wellness advocate in New York, New York. Her passion is to transform the skin with wellness and result-driven treatment plans. She is also an acne expert, laser technician, food lover, and yogini. Subdhan is a big believer on balancing lifestyle; she implements breathing techniques into her facial treatments which allow her clients to relax their mind, body, and soul. Since graduating aesthetics’ school in 2018, her mission is to educate and help women feel confident and beautiful.

Spicing it Up: Essential Herbs & Spices for Skin Care

You probably know that herbs and spices are used as an addition to your favorite culinary dish or cocktail for a delicious flavor boost, but did you know that they have also been used in skin care due to their beneficial medicinal properties? Herbs and spices have been a staple skin care ingredient, particularly in Hungarian skin care, for over half a century, and for good reason. Packed with healthy phytochemicals, vitamins, and antioxidants, the healing and restorative properties of many herbs and spices can treat a variety of skin concerns, including dryness, signs of aging, inflammation, and hyperpigmentation – all without unwanted side effects. Their popularity continues to grow, as many synthetic chemicals in skin care frequently cause side effects like increased sensitivity, redness, and irritation, and clients are looking for natural solutions. When it comes to searching for effective ingredients in skin care products, you need to look no further than the natural herbs and spices found in your kitchen pantry to achieve healthy and radiant skin. Here are some heroic, skin-saving herbs and spices that you’ll want to make sure are included on the ingredient list of your skin care products.

PAPRIKA

Hungarian spicy paprika (Capsicum anuum) is a staple in Hungarian face and body care products. Although the idea of using paprika topically might be new to some people, this spicy red powder has been highly regarded as a beautiful skin producer for hundreds of years.1 Paprika is beneficial for skin as it is packed with potent antioxidants, like vitamins A and C, that keep skin looking supple and plump by neutralizing free radicals that accelerate the breakdown of collagen.2 Paprika is also a great source of carotenoid beta-carotene, which can help prevent and treat common signs of aging like fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation.2  

When applied topically, paprika stimulates skin’s circulatory system to reveal toned and glowing skin, and this stimulation is triggered by a naturally occurring chemical called capsaicin. For those who have tried paprika-infused skin care, you’ve likely experienced the immediate invigorating and spicy sensation that typically leaves skin with a red hue for 30 to 60 minutes after application. This is completely normal as the increased circulation causes accelerated blood flow throughout skin, increasing oxygenation, detoxification, and removal of waste while decreasing inflammation to improve virtually every skin condition.2 These properties make paprika a particularly great treatment for those with acne-prone skin as the increased circulation and oxygenation in combination with paprika’s antibacterial properties can assist with clearing skin of blemish-causing bacteria.2 It’s easy to see why this should be a staple ingredient in everyone’s skin care routines. 

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Brian Goodwin is an award-winning international educator for Éminence Organic Skin Care. As a master medical aesthetician, master herbalist, and consultant, Goodwin leverages over 10 years of spa industry experience to bring fun, engaging education to spa professionals around the world. Voted ‘Favorite Brand Educator’ in DERMASCOPE’s 2019 Aestheticians’ Choice Awards, Goodwin delivers influential trainings which continue to raise the bar for professional education and garner worldwide peer recognition. Goodwin embraces every opportunity to share his passion and guide industry professionals on their path to success. He has educated and consulted more than 2,000 distinguished spas and has notably been invited to deliver keynotes at major industry events across North America.  

 

 

Eye of the Beholder: Services & Products for the Eye Area

The eyes, the proclaimed windows to the soul, give insight into people’s deepest emotions. Yet, on the outside, they tell a very different story. Comprised of the most delicate skin on the face, the eye area’s susceptibility to environmental stressors reveals the first signs of aging and reflects how much attention is given in this fragile area.

Vulnerable to the same aggressors as the rest of skin, the eye area experiences fine lines and wrinkles, dark circles, dryness, uneven texture, puffiness, and loss of firmness to a greater degree. Repeated exposure to ultraviolet rays damages collagen and elastin, thinning skin further and resulting in fine lines and dark, hollowed areas beneath the eyes. Skin degradation is further progressed through hereditary factors and daily lifestyle habits, such as smoking, lack of sleep, smiling, frowning, and repetitive squinting.

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October 2024

Brands of the Month

  • Skin Script
  • Face Reality Skincare
  • RapidLash Rocasuba, Inc.