Once the skin has received a deep cleansing, any products used beyond the initial step will have a greater efficacy and offer more profound results. In order to make the skin an open canvas for the remainder of a treatment, however, it is important that the aesthetician select a cleanser appropriate for her client's skin type.

The Breakdown
Obviously some cleansers are better for certain skin types than others, which is why the aesthetician should know the fundamental breakdown of these products. While there is a multitude of cleansing items available on the market, most fall into one of four primary categories:

Milky – These cleansers are lightweight emulsions that are preferable for those with dry, dehydrated, and sensitive skins. These cleansers typically have an emollient consistency, are rich in lipids, non-stripping to the skin's natural moisture barrier, and easily removed with a soft cloth or facial sponge, making them preferable for the more delicate skin types. Milky cleansers are also ideal to use during a facial's first cleansing as they work well for makeup removal.

Foaming – Also known as rinseable cleansers, work well for individuals with clogged, combination, and oily skin types. These cleansers usually come in a gel form and are designed to lather when applied to the skin, helping to loosen and remove excess oil, dirt, and dead surface cells. In general, foaming products are popular among teenage and male clientele for their deep cleansing benefits and simplicity of use. It should also be noted that a rinseable cleanser may occasionally double as an exfoliating product as some contain mild hydroxy acids for flushing follicles of debris.

Exfoliating – These cleansers can be separated into two subcategories: Granular and non-granular. Granular exfoliating cleansers, otherwise known as facial scrubs, contain physical exfoliating micro-granules which serve to buff and resurface rough-textured skin. Non-granular exfoliating washes, on the other hand, typically contain alpha and beta hydroxy acids which work to loosen cellular bonds and flush pores while helping to control cell buildup and excessive oiliness.

Medicated – Often used by clients with problematic skin and contain clearing agents such as benzoyl peroxide. These washes are designed to minimize breakouts and kill acne-causing bacteria, while reducing oiliness in the skin. Once breakouts are brought under control, it is usually recommended to switch the client to a mild, non-medicated cleanser for his or her skin type.

The scent, texture, and sensation of a cleanser are also important factors to keep in mind during product selection. For instance, if a client has problematic skin but is also experiencing heat and sensitivity, a soothing milky cleanser may be selected in place of a more aggressive exfoliating cleanser; it is best in many cases to address the skin's present condition before focusing on corrective measures. An additional example would be if a client experiences irritation from the fragrance contained in a cleanser; if this is the case, a non-fragranced product would be selected regardless of the other cleanser's beneficial attributes.

Technique and Application
Another important treatment consideration is the technique used during cleanser application. Like the product, an aesthetician's touch, pressure, and facial manipulations should be determined by the individual's skin type. Gentle touch, light pressure, and soft effleurage (feather-like) movements should be used for any client with dry, dehydrated, or sensitive skin. For clients with clogged, combination, and oily skin types, circular hand techniques with petrissage (kneading) and a firm pressure is applicable provided there are no sensitivities.
Yet, another great thing about using a cleanser is its flexibility of use. While many skin care products are limited to a single step within a facial, cleansers can be used at various points throughout a treatment. For instance, if an aesthetician feels that a scrub exfoliant is indicated for her client's skin but the consistency of the product is too thick, a milky cleanser may be used to dilute the product for better spread-ability. This technique may also be used for other rich treatment items such as heavy massage products and clay-based masks. In addition, a cleanser can be used with modalities such as the brush machine for a more involved surface exfoliation, and is ideal for prepping the hands and feet for add-on services such as paraffin dips or salt scrubs.

The Need
Generally, cleanser is the one item we run out of first in our dispensaries and have to replenish the most on our retail counters. In terms of professional treatment, many skin therapists prefer to work on not only the face, but the neck, décolleté, and shoulder areas which may require a liberal amount of product to cover. If the aesthetician is doing more than a couple treatments a day, she may find even her larger receptacles of cleanser running a little low.

From the retail perspective, a large number of cleansers come in bottles with flip-top lids and pumps, making them a popular commodity among both genders for their convenience of use. Cleansers fit well within a woman's morning skin care routine and serve as an excellent method for removing makeup at the end of the day, while men enjoy the simplicity of having an easily accessible item in the shower that can double as an effective shaving aid. With consumer savvy on the rise, many clients also recognize cleansers as a valid alternative to harsh bar soap, which tends to be slightly alkaline, residual, and stripping of the skin's natural barrier. Such factors go to make cleanser a versatile, frequently dispensed, and sought after product in the skin care business.

Eli Jones is a renowned North Carolina aesthetics educator who currently serves as Director of Education for Mark Lees Skin Care in Pensacola, Fla. With his years of experience as an undergraduate instructor, and well-established reputation in clinical skin care, Eli has worked to help students gain a better understanding of skin therapy from basic to advanced levels.

 

Fruitzyme Cleanser from Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts uses plant derived tannins to gently wash away daily dirt and makeup from the skin surface while improving hydration. 800 689-0499, arcskincare, or CRR# 299	The skin is the largest detox organ, its layers and pores are continually clogged with garbage. Edimi Skin & Body Care's Deep Pore Cleanser is the antidote. It cleans deep down to restore the protection and repair mode, thereby enabling anti-aging. 888-362-8425 or edimi.com	Éminence Organic Skin Care's Citrus Exfoliating Wash is a gentle exfoliating wash for oily to normal skin that allows the user to exfoliate and cleanse in one step; removes surface impurities and leaves skin luminous and clear. 888-747-6342, eminence or CRR# 165	Astara Skin Care's super concentrated Botanical Cleansing Gelé cleanses without stripping, leaving skin soft, supple and hydrated. Key anti - inflammatory and antioxidant ingredients provide energized, "let's age gracefully" results. 888-728-9191 or astaraskincare	Super Soft Cleanser from Dr. med. Christine Schrammek is a very gentle cleansing milk that contains valuable oils which leaves the skin soft and smooth. Bisabolol calms the skin; prevents the skin from drying out; pH-neutral; and excellently suitable to remove eye makeup. greenpeel or CRR# 273

ENESSA Organic Skin Care's Monoi Soothing Cleanser is a gentle and effective cleanser, rich in antioxidants, that balances and sooths your client's skin while using all natural foaming agents from coconut oil and organic aloe vera leaf juice.323-655-5950 or enessa.com	GlyMed Plus®'s Cell Science Mega-Purifying Cleanser is an ultra-gentle, effective hydrophilic cleanser that instantly dissolves makeup and the daily accumulations of oils and environmental debris that contribute to aging skin. 800-676-9667, glymedplus, or CRR# 174	Classic FANIÉ INTL introduces their SWEET APPLE BOTANICAL CLEANSER. Experience this refreshing deep pore cleanser and enjoy its gentle foaming lather that can be used on all skin types. 800-441-3264, fanie.com,or CRR# 277	HydroPeptide Cleanse buffs away dead skin cells with massaging beads to improve skin texture, help reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and acne scarring with ten percent sugar derived glycolic acid. 800-932-9873, hydropeptide or CRR# 280	H2O Plus skincare's Sea Pure Creamy Facial Cleanser (98% Natural) harnesses natural surfactants and sea moss to easily remove makeup, surface debris, and environmental impurities while nourishing the skin through hydration. 800-242-2284 or h20plus.com

iS CLINICAL®'s CREAM CLEANSER is a light-weight, moisturizing cleansing cream that is powerful yet completely non-irritation, making it ideal for even the most sensitive skin. It can be wiped off or rinsed off with water. 818-638-8758, isclinical.com, or CRR# 188	Dr. MEHRAN7 cleansers can be used by each skin type: Oily, dry, combination, dehydrated, sensitive, extra-sensitive, and acne-prone. Consistent, not watery, they have rich and velvety textures of unequalled softness, comfort, and efficiency. 800-363-0694 or lesoin.com	Turbo Wash Energizing Cleanser, from Jack Black, jump starts the body, awakens the mind, and helps revitalize the immune system for peak performance; a 2-in-1 product that cleanses both hair and body. 877-766-3388 or getjackblack.com

 

Niko Cosmetics Inc.'s new USDA certified organic skin care line featuring the kakadu plum includes three cleansers, one being their Organic Ocean Kelp Nourishing Facial Cleanser. Offered in dry formula for all skin types and combinations. 888-388-6456 or niko.com	pevonia® BOTANICA's Phyto-Gel Cleanser, part of Ligne Purilys – the Oily Skin line, provides a natural soft lather to deeply cleanse. Non-alkaline and non-drying, this gel cleanses without stripping skin's essential moisture barrier, leaving skin clean, fresh, soft, and supple. 800-PEVONIA, pevonia.com, or CRR# 278	Rhonda Allison's Pumpkin Cleanser blends pumpkin with powerful antioxidants, natural surface-reducing lipids, peptides, and essential oils to remove surface residue, protect against free-radical damage, and nourish the skin. 866-313-SKIN, rhondaallison# 222	Fleur's new Silky Cleansing Cream made with magnolia's bud is a refreshing solution to skin cleansing; removes makeup and skin impurities leaving the skin fresh and soft. Formulated for all skin types. 877-353-8777, www.fleur-s.com, or CRR# 122	Vitelle Medscience Salicylic Cleanser exfoliates lightly while washing away dirt and excess oil without residual dryness. Excellent for uneven skin tone, dark spots, and post blemish discoloration; mild formula suitable for daily use. 877-902-2332, vitellelab.net, or CRR# 193