Pigmentation is the color of the skin which is dependent upon the amount of melanin contained in the skin.

1. Biology – Dark skin contains the most melanin. Melanin helps to control body temperature and protect against skin cancer. However, ethnic skin is more susceptible to hyperpigmentation as melanin levels increase, and it most visible in medium to light tones of Black, Hispanic and Asian skin.
2. Treatment – Prevention is the best treatment for hyperpigmentation in ethnic skin, and it is best achieved using a good sunscreen and not picking at or over-treating the skin. While darker skin naturally diffuses the UV rays, it does not prevent sun burns or lessen the risk of skin cancer. Broad spectrum sun protection is always required when ethnic skin is exposed to the sun's rays for extended periods of time.

Once discoloration has occurred, progressive rather than aggressive pigmentation reduction is in order. Overuse of bleaching and peeling products on ethnic skin will only create additional and permanent skin damage. Use caution when experimenting with products on melanin rich ethnic skin as it may trigger discoloration for years.

Pore size is the circumstance of the pore as it appears on the skin's surface.

1. Biology – Oversized pores cause ethnic skin to look unrefined while small pores make it appear sallow and dull. Pore size is related in strong part to the skin's sebum or oil production. Oversized pores in ethnic skin especially have a propensity to form blackheads.
2. Treatment – Contrary to popular belief that skin bracing astringents or ice will shrink the pores, these approaches merely tense the skin temporarily. Only through regular exfoliation and pore cleansing will pore profiles be reduced. Pores enlarge as they near the skin's surface. The "Top Horney Layer" is comprised of several layers of dead skin, and it is rigid in nature compared to the supple protected tissue beneath it. By gently removing this surface layer and exposing the supple lower layer, the appearance of pore size is minimized. Top layer exfoliation in ethnic skin must be balanced in order to minimize excessive oil production and, in extreme cases, avoid the damage that causes hyperpigmentation.

Skin thickness is a strong indicator of its turgor, or firmness.

1. Biology – Thicker ethnic skin is less likely to experience collagen failure and fewer wrinkles will appear with age. There is actually very little down side to having "a thick skin."
2. Treatment – This condition is a bonus; thick skin is more resilient and collagen fibers are more abundant thereby minimizing the need for treatment.

Oil production is the amount of oil, or sebum, that ethnic skin produces.

1. Biology – While no direct link has been established between skin color and oil production, it is commonly accepted that Black, Hispanic and Asian skin tends to be oilier and have larger pores, especially in the T-zone area of the face and on the back.
2. Treatment – Using water soluble cleanser at least twice per day is the best treatment to balance the oil/hydration ration in healthy ethnic skin. Excessive oil requires management without stripping the skin dry. Maintaining balance requires vigilance to adjust for natural body fluctuations, seasonal and environmental impacts.

Hydration level is the skin's fluid level.

1. Biology – Hydration is not directly linked to oil production. However, oil does help to protect the skin's fluid level. Fluid levels directly affect the skin's texture and its overall healthy appearance.
2. Treatment – The use of more occlusive creams and light oils protect the ethnic skin's fluid levels. Many clients make the mistake of only treating the oiliness of the skin and end up dehydrating their skin leaving it ashen, flakey and even sensitive to the touch.

The largest issue to overcome in the treatment of ethnic skin is the mythology that surrounds it. Ignore the general rules about ethnic skin care and focus instead on the logic of a consistent and thoughtful skin care regimen.