In honor of Pomegranate Awareness Month:

The Oil for Skin – Pomegranates and Omega5

by Tzeira Sofer

The Pomegranate is a tree/shrub valued around the world for its potent antioxidant properties. Though highly popularized in the media and consumer culture over the last few years, pomegranates were actually known to have many different uses throughout ancient cultures: mentioned in the Bible, popular in Roman culture, and used as food in Asia, India, Pakistan, Armenia, and Turkey.

Over 1,000 species of pomegranate have been identified, and most of the significant research on the plant was carried out in Soviet Russia, where they devoted much attention to the medicinal benefits of the pomegranate. The tree thrives close to the equator in a moderate climate and is not a very demanding plant. It does not even need to be treated for pests. The Biblical myth of Adam and Eve's "forbidden fruit" is widely believed to feature the pomegranate, and not an apple, as many modern stories suggest. In short, the pomegranate is a culturally rich and romantic fruit, known to be one of the most potent antioxidants throughout time.

Ancient medicine has claimed that every part of the pomegranate could be utilized to our benefit – nothing goes to waste. Today, our main focus is on the oil, and not because of its taste or smell, but because of its molecular structure. It is an enigma in the eyes of scientists due to the fact that it is a CLNA (conjugated linolenic acid), purely botanical, containing Omega5 (punicic acid) – which is typical to the pomegranate only. No other seeds contain this variety of oil.

Needless to say, the juice of the pomegranate has been very commercialized over the last several years. The juice contains ellagic acid, which is very important, but it contains a significant amount of fructose as well. Therefore, it may be wise to consume it in small amounts, or in dilution with water. The seeds of the pomegranate contain the unique Omega5 oil (punicic acid). In order to obtain 1 cup of pomegranate juice, you need 5 pomegranates, whereas in order to produce 1 cup of oil, you need 500 pomegranates: this vital comparison reveals just how precious the seed oil of the pomegranate remains.

The Omega 5 fatty acid molecule is extremely vulnerable to oxidation, and as a result, it is been very challenging to learn how to stabilize and work with this ingredient. It is a very potent, dry oil that leaves no greasy residue. As much as possible, it needs to be kept cold and isolated, up to the last minute before it is incorporated into products. When it is used in products, it requires protection from oxidation, which compromises the potency of the Omega5. Like most botanicals, the fresher it is, the better. The oil will alter scent and odor if stored above 80 degrees for over a week. These are some of the perpetual challenges that go along with creating a category that is using a different skin technology and a very different focus on ingredients and formulation