Lips begin to noticeably thin starting as early as 30-years old.It is an unfortunate part of the aging process that lips lose their plump, full, and voluptuous volume.So, why does the dramatic transformation happen?

COLLAGEN CAVEAT

As we get older, the rate at which the body produces collagen, a vital protein that gives lips fullness and shape, begins to decline. Collagen production decreases at a rate of 1% to 2% per year starting in our 20s.In general, women produce less collagen than men, making the depletion even more noticeable.When you see clients, you probably notice the creases and lines that have formed on their lips, as well as evident lip thinning.The main reason that lip lines and creases start to form is due to lip volume decreasing from lack of collagen production.Collagen production is critical because it provides structure to the skin and creates the base for elastin and hyaluronic acid, both are vital to the structure, shape, and suppleness of lips.Therefore, consistent collagen is imperative for the lip zone.

GENETICS

There is also a bit of genetic predisposition to lip thinning, hormonal changes, or scarring from cold sores or lip biting that can affect the youth of the lips.However, lifestyle and self-care can also impact the appearance of lip lines and volume loss.Lip fillers have been a go-to solution for clients to gain the volume that they have lost; however, lip fillers do not always correct the loss of the vermillion border in its color appearance.The vermillion border gradually starts to disappear with the lip aging process and the beautiful clear lip-line, as well as the healthy, rosy-pink tone. Many clients will say they notice their lips are not as crisp (vermillion border loses its edge), and they feel the need to use a lip liner and reapply lip color religiously.

As a skincare professional, you always want to first address lip hydration and make sureclients are using proper lip or skincare products that stimulate collagen and restore hydration to their lips.Once lip health is addressed, then analyze their lip definition volume of the top and bottom lip.Inquire to find out if clients have considered or tried hyaluronic acid lip fillers for adding back in lip volume or correcting any asymmetry.Many clients are very hesitant to have any lip filler, due to the results they have seen in some of their friends, or they just are not comfortable with the idea.An alternative lip color procedure for them to consider is the lip blushing or permanent lip color technique done by permanent makeup artists.These procedures can offer a restoration to the lip line and natural lip color that has gradually disappeared in aging lips. Understandingeach procedure will help determine if you want to add one or both of these to your repertoire or refer a client out for a little lip restoration.

LIP BLUSHING

Lip blushing is the new alternative to the previous permanent makeup lip procedure offered by permanent makeup artists.It can be compared to lip gloss, tint, or lip blush.The idea of the procedure is to restore a natural lip color and keep the lip’s edge or vermillion border defined but soft.This will give the lips a fuller, softer appearance without a harsh lip liner look.With any permanent makeup procedure, clients should always have a consultation prior to the procedure to learn about the artist, see their previous work, and discuss the shape and color.

A topical numbing cream is first applied to ensure the client is comfortable.Once the lips are numb, the artist will draw in the lip shape that enhances the vermillion border and balances out the lip shape.An important focus during this process is to ensure that the corners never connect between the top and bottom lips as that can enhance the downturn of the lips which is a part of the natural aging process.

The permanent makeup procedures are typically done with a digital permanent makeup machine utilizing a specific single or multiple needle configuration inside a sterilize cartridge that implants pigment into the lower layers of the skin.The goal of lip blushing is to choose a pigment that restores or enhances the natural lip color that has been lost. Lips are prone to swelling with any lip procedure, so the client should be prepared for “Angelina Jolie lips” for a couple of days after the procedure.The lip color will also appear more vibrant and darker for the first few days.Around day three, the lips will softly flake, and the natural shade of the lip color implanted will start to appear.The lip blushing procedure does not replace lipstick, but it gives the lips a natural tint and softly redefines the lip line.

Clients that have previous hyperpigmentation, white spots, or scarring in their lips might need multiple applications of color and a slightly different color formula to successfully cover darker spots but can still get a beautiful result.

PERMANENT LIP COLOR

Permanent color is a similar process to lip blushing but the lip color deposited is a bit deeper and more solid to fully saturate the lips and create a more vibrant color or camouflage lip imperfections. Rarely is the lip a solid color, so artists typically do not use one solid color on the lip.Instead, artists take the time to add various tones, shading, and use application techniques that mimic the natural appearance while amplifying the lips’ volume and shape.Permanent makeup for the lip can add color back to a faded vermillion border, correct subtle asymmetries, and give the lip an enhanced or minimized fullness for a beautiful smile, giving your client a color enhanced and more youthful look to their lips. 

This technique is great for enhancing the cupids bow to create a more youthful pout.Clients desire permanent lip color to eliminate smudging, smearing, or having to reapply lipstick throughout the day.After the healed result is complete, they can enhance the vibrancy of the color with a little gloss and go about their day worry-free.

Overall, restoring lip color, balance, and shape can be a game changer for a client’s self-confidence.Defining lips by adding even the slightest amount of color or lip blush can be the perfect touch to having a natural glowing look.These color treatments will not only give lips the look of volume, but also emphasize the natural shape of the lips with changes or corrections that were needed to restore balance and harmony.

Who said that you can only give lips volume with fillers?As quoted by the great and talented Audrey Hepburn, “Beauty is the being the best possible version of yourself, inside and out.”We all just need a little help sometimes.

Jaclyn Peresetsky is the founder of Skin Perfect Academy, Skin Perfect Spas, and Colore Me Perfect Analysis and Cosmetics.Her passion lies in advanced education for aestheticians in real-life aesthetics.She contributes her expertise through speaking, writing, teaching, and continues to see her clients to advance her knowledge and skill to share with others.