Fields marked with an asterisk (*) are required.
What do glazed donuts, weed, and vampires have in common? Aside from their common ground in modern skin care vernacular, absolutely nothing. However, if you find another similarity, let me know. Let’s connect the dots – as a coworker of mine said recently to a client in our retail area regarding a facial oil, “The kids these days say, ‘this’ll make you look like a glazed donut.’” Cannabis is gracing our retail shelves in everything from bath and body products to performance skin care products. Meanwhile, vampires fit in because they are the namesake for PRP (Platelet-rich-plasma) topical application following a microneedling treatment. The point is that cannabis in skin care is still a very foreign concept to some. That being said, as an ingredient, it isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. Cannabis has a lot to offer skin care professionals and has the potential to stay as a major player in and out of our treatment rooms, but it is important to go back to the basics and get a rooted understanding of this plant first.
THE SEEDS OF WEED
Cannabis likely originated in Western China, the Middle East, and Asia. The earliest documentation of it goes back as far as 2,800 BCE by the father of Chinese Medicine, Emperor Shen Nung, in his pharmacopoeia. He listed it as a staple of medicine, critical to health and wellness. That was 5,000 years ago! This plant is so much bigger than just hippies rolling joints and “Pineapple Express” (Although I truly love Seth Rogan!). This plant is intertwined into the fabric of humanity. It has been revered for its medicinal, industrial, and cultural uses for millennia and spread its seed the world over.
THE MAKEUP
Cannabis is special because it contains at least two important compounds – terpenes and cannabinoids.
Want to read more? Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer. SUBSCRIBE
Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.
SUBSCRIBE
Antonia Schreiber is a New York state licensed massage therapist, cosmetologist specializing in aesthetics science, and electrologist. With over 16 years’ experience in the industry, Schreiber’s work has brought her everywhere from the classroom to her certified green spa, the Windham Spa, to the United States Olympic Training Center and beyond. Outside of the treatment room she is a writer, speaker, and consultant with the New York State Department of Education, leading education firms and industry magazines. Her current passion projects include treatment research and development for burn patients, and assisting in the development of the United States Paralymic Bobsled and Skeleton Team.
Drinking in the spa is commonplace today. With the “rosé all day” movement and social media’s perpetuation and normalization of day drinking for moms especially, it’s probable that the consumption of cannabis products isn’t far away from being normal in the spa as well. Or is it?
RAPID RELIEF
Before we continue, know that I’m not a fan of smoking anything. I’ve actually never smoked a cigarette in my almost 40 years of life. Not to mention, I’m a cheap date and highly sensitive person, so anything intoxicating hits me hard, but I hold zero judgement for people that do! While I do enjoy taking a high-dose CBD (the cannabidiol that is not intoxicating as opposed to its cousin, THC) gummy from time to time as a sleep aid or to help me manage my anxiety, this column does not advocate for smoking.
However, it is important to note that one of the fastest ways for a substance to enter the blood stream is through inhalation via the lungs. If you haven’t revisited human anatomy and physiology in a while, try to recall the 480 million little grape vine-like clusters of exposed blood vessels called alveoli. These structures in the lungs help oxygenate blood and are an essential part of the lungs’ job within the body. Those alveoli are the reason cannabinoids enter the blood stream so quickly, producing rapid onset of the desired stimuli of whatever is inhaled or nebulized.
Antonia Schreiber is a licensed massage therapist, cosmetologist, and electrologist. Schreiber established, owns, and operates The Windham Spa. As a sought-after speaker and writer, she contributes to leading education firms and magazines, is a board member and consultant for the New York State Department of Education Career and Technical Education Advisory Committee, and is a volunteer educator and mentor to high school aesthetic and cosmetology students. Schreiber is currently finishing her certification program as a holistic aromatherapist. She recently became a certified mountain bike guide with the International Mountain Bike Association in order to continue volunteering with the Adaptive Sports Foundation.
Scarring is an inevitable part of having skin. Therefore, it is an inevitable part of treating skin. Whether your scope is as an aesthetician, nurse practitioner, or plastic surgeon, you’re going to be very familiar with scarring at one point or another in your career.
FORMATION
Scarring is the overproduction of collagen after the dermis is injured and the wound has healed. The dermis is the layer of skin responsible for thermoregulation; it helps support and protect the deeper layers and aids in sensation. It could be considered the stocking that holds all skin together – it houses nerves along with blood and lymphatic vessels. When the dermis is damaged, scarring or fibrosis is more likely to form, especially in younger people, or higher Fitzpatrick types. Scars can be categorized as keloid or hypertrophic, amongst others, but this article will discuss them in the general sense. This wouldn’t be a cannabis column if I didn’t say “cannabis may help with that!”
Cannabis and the compounds that make it therapeutic, known as cannabinoids, are fabulous anti-inflammatory agents. A critical part of any healing process is dealing with inflammation. Scarring is no different. The stages of scar formation following an injury are as follows:
CANNABIS TO THE RESCUE
Aside from the fascinating process of how we heal, along with skin’s ability to reconstruct, the great news is scars are very treatable depending on your scope of practice and cannabis once again has a place in the treatment room!
The word “terpene” may not mean a lot to most skin care professionals, but shortly, you will realize just how influential and involved they already are in your aesthetics practice. Most already know a few and don’t realize what exactly they are.
Is a terpene a person? Nope. Is it a place? Negative. Terpenes are therapeutic compounds found in all plants that give them their smell, color, and therapeutic value. There are over 23,000 identifiable terpenes in nature. “Oh great! This must be a granola skin care article,” I can hear some of you saying to yourselves. Pump the brakes and listen darling!
Terpenes are a critical part of chemistry for all skin care practices independent of how you want to label them. fromy are a predominant part of organic and plant-based skin care, every chemist, biochemist, and cosmetic chemist in the world has a very keen and deep relationship, or at least understanding of, these compounds and skin care professionals work with them from the first day of their journey.
NATURE’S POWERHOUSE
Terpenes can be used in the formulation of skin care and body care products for a myriad of reasons, from their smell to their antiviral, antimicrobial, or antibacterial properties. One of the easiest terpenes to remember is limonene. The beautiful thing about limonene as a terpene is that the root of its name comes from the fruit it is most abundant in, lemons. Have you ever smelled hints of lemon in other plants, like rosemary, mint, or juniper? Different cultivars, meaning varieties (we mostly use “strains” as a word to identify bacteria in science) of cannabis can have lemony smells. That is from the traces of the terpene limonene. Limonene is used as an antioxidant and a permeation enhancer, meaning it can boost the absorption of ingredients. The aromatic side of terpenes is an easy way to digest and better understand the breadth and overlap of terpenes, which then opens the floodgates of all the other potentials of terpenes.
Another easy example of a terpene to remember is eucalyptol, which makes up to 80% of the terpene profile, which is measured with a chromatography test, in eucalyptus! It is also found in varying ratios in other plants like sweet basil, tea tree, rosemary, sage, and cardamom. Some other names for eucalyptus that you may have seen on ingredient lists include cajeputol, 1,8-p-methane, 1,8-oxido-p-methane, and 1,8-cineole.
Some terpenes are great antioxidants, meaning they scavenge free radicals and protect the integrity of skin from oxidation. They have phenomenal potential as anticonvulsants and antispasmodics, meaning they can reduce or prevent seizures and spasms. There are even countless terpenes that provide extraordinary anti-inflammatory properties to products. The point is that for every skin care problem skin professionals face, there is most likely not only one but a number of terpenes we are using to treat them.
Cannabis is all the rage. As humans we like to think we discover things on a regular basis. We think we discovered continents even though they existed before we knew how to traverse them. The aesthetics and cannabis industries are not immune to that trend either. While cannabis has been legally gracing retail shelves and treatment rooms for a handful of years now, we think we discovered it. Newsflash, it’s been around for millennia! Cannabis was first documented in ancient China around 6,000 years ago. This plant has graced central Asia for generations, growing wild and robust. It is nothing new. What is new is the scientific evidence and fervor we have for the plant, and its magic compounds, as a country.
THE MANY FACES OF CANNABIS
On a daily basis, the medical community is expanding clinical uses for cannabis based on scientific evidence. The United States government recently proposed reclassifying the plant from a schedule I narcotic to a schedule III, meaning that it would be a recognized substance that has medical benefits and uses. That may sound like a minor detail, but it is historic in the continued reintegration of the plant into our society. Cannabis was very legal in the United States up until the Marihuana Tax Act of 1937, and it wasn’t just used recreationally. It was and still is a major industrial crop. From fibers used in clothing, concrete in building foundations, and food sources as a supplement and complete protein source, cannabis sort of does it all. Henry Ford’s famous Model T car was not only made in part with bioplastics containing hemp, but the prototype even ran on hemp oil.
Antonia Schreiber is a New York State licensed massage therapist, cosmetologist specializing in aesthetics science, and electrologist. With over 16 years’ experience in the industry, Schreiber’s work has brought her everywhere from the classroom to her certified green spa, the Windham Spa, to the United States Olympic Training Center and beyond. Outside of the treatment room she is a writer, speaker, and consultant with the New York State Department of Education, leading education firms and industry magazines. Her current passion projects include treatment research and development for burn patients, and assisting in the development of the United States Paralymic Bobsled and Skeleton Team.
Skin care and growing cannabis are actually very similar practices for me. While this is my 20th year in the treatment room, it is only my third year in the cannabis industry, and I’ve come to learn that it is measured in dog years – for every single year of changes and advances in the industry it feels like three or more has passed. The common ground is simply that, like people, plants are organisms whose existence, health, and equilibrium rely on basic needs: air, water, sun, and sustenance.
Just like plants, we operate as organisms in optimum pH. Internally, our bodies need to be slightly alkaline, meaning basic. Externally, skin is happiest functioning in a slightly acidic environment due to our acid mantel, the oil skin produces to protect our body from pathogens, provide hydration, and lock in moisture. Without our acid mantel, any little microbe or pathogen that lands on our skin could ultimately kill us. The soil a plant grows in depends on a particular acidity to thrive as well, and every plant has different needs. Without proper pH a plant can be stunted, sick, or even die. Thankfully, being a skin care professional rarely gets that serious.
THE SKIN CARE-CANNABIS CONNECTION
While there is so much overlap between our body composition and that of the cannabis plant, there is also a lot of overlap in the skin care and cannabis market. Both have an overabundance of products hitting the shelves on a daily basis. Some of them are good, some of them are great, and some of them leave a lot to be desired. Even as a professional, the competition for your attention is overwhelming, but the same common sense your superior education and pedigree has bestowed upon you as a skin care professional should be equally applied to your CBD and cannabis products as to your traditional skin care. First and foremost, know your state regulations regarding cannabis. While it is a cold hard fact that CBD does not produce a high, it is still a highly regulated ingredient on a federal and state level and demands respect, integrity, and understanding.
There is an important lesson in the emerging market of ever expanding results-oriented cannabis products: there are many good products out there. They might not be legally compliant, but that doesn’t make them bad. It just makes them noncompliant (illegal). To flip the script, there are many legally compliant products coming out, and more to come as the industry expands, that may not be very good. Therefore, it is the skin care professional’s job to understand how to decipher the snake-oil from the good stuff. Consider this article an introduction to the process.
Antonia Schreiber is a New York State licensed massage therapist, cosmetologist specializing in aesthetics science, and electrologist. With over 16 years’ experience in the industry, Schreiber’s work has brought her everywhere from the classroom to her certified green spa, the Windham Spa, to the United States Olympic Training Center and beyond. Outside of the treatment room she is a writer, speaker, and consultant with the New York State Department of Education, leading education firms and industry magazines. Antonia’s current passion projects include treatment research and development for burn patients, and assisting in the development of the United States Paralymic Bobsled and Skeleton Team.
The perfect pucker is mandatory for Valentine’s Day, even if the only person you are kissing is your reflection (No shame!). The good news is that cannabis not only has a myriad of uses during the month of love but is an especially good ingredient to perfect your pout all year long.
COMPLEX SYSTEMS
Cannabidiol (CBD) is one of over 400 cannabinoids from the cannabis plant. Cannabinoids are compounds that are exclusively extracted from the cannabis plant and have a range of potential therapeutic benefits, such as easing anxiety, reducing inflammation, and anti-viral and antimicrobial properties, just name a few. Additionally, humans already have a network of receptors in our body that work with cannabinoids.
Antonia is a New York State licensed massage therapist, cosmetologist specializing in aesthetics science, and electrologist. With over 16 years’ experience in the industry Antonia’s work has brought her everywhere from the classroom to her certified green spa, the Windham Spa, to the United States Olympic Training Center and beyond. Outside of the treatment room she is a writer, speaker, and consultant with the New York State Department of Education, leading education firms and industry magazines. Antonia’s current passion projects include treatment research and development for burn patients, and assisting in the development of the United States Paralymic Bobsled and Skeleton Team.
Cannabis, weed, ganja, marijuana, pot, bud – the plant goes by many names. William Shakespeare had it right when Juliet said, “What’s in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet.” For the sake of professionalism and out of respect for a plant that has been used medicinally by humans for millennia, we are only going to refer to it as cannabis. For thousands of years, humans have cultivated cannabis all over the world, from the Himalayas to South America. It has only been within the last 40 to 50 years that we have taken a heavy scientific interest in the plant, even though it was named by the scientific community all the way back in 1753.
The hope is that cannabis, CBD, and all the extracts related to it will continue to change the aesthetics industry for the better. Along with that change, we are compelled as experts to advocate, educate, and promote best practices with any ingredient, and cannabis is no different.
Antonia Schreiber is a New York State licensed massage therapist, cosmetologist specializing in aesthetics science, and electrologist. With over 16 years of experience in the industry, Schreiber’s work has brought her everywhere from the classroom to her certified green spa, The Windham Spa, to the U.S. Olympic Training Center and beyond. Outside of the treatment room, she is a writer, speaker, and consultant with the New York State Department of Education, leading education firms and industry magazines. Her current passion projects include treatment research, development for burn patients, and assisting in the development of the United Statess Paralympic Bobsled and Skeleton Team.
Dealing with difficult clients is part of in any customer service job, whether in the front of the spa, a service provider, or management. Aestheticians come across difficult clients in a myriad of ways. They could be perpetually tardy or rude. Clients could be combative, despite making the decision to come see a professional for a service. However, the onus is not always on the client. Sometimes skin care professionals must take responsibility for a difficult situation or negative outcome.
Life is full of surprises, the unexpected twists and turns that fate leads us to and from in our personal and professional lives can be overwhelming and profound. As aestheticians, we live very structured professional lives. We have preset appointments for services that are standardized times, protocols, and ingredients. We have skin care and sanitation regimens built into our psyches that are second nature to us. If we are lucky, we can even rely on the fact that many of our clients will see us regularly for their monthly service of choice. If you ask me, that means we might be mildly type-A personalities – even if it is just in our professional lives.
Antonia Schreiber is a New York State licensed massage therapist, cosmetologist specializing in aesthetics science, and electrologist. With over 16 years’ experience in the industry, her work has brought her everywhere from the classroom, to her certified green spa – The Windham Spa. Outside of the treatment room, she is a writer, speaker, and consultant with the New York State Department of Education, leading education firms and industry magazines. Schreiber’s current passion projects include treatment research and development for burn patients and assisting in the development of the U.S. Paralympic Bobsled and Skeleton Team.
We live in a world where being environmentally minded is not only a necessity for the health of the planet, but it also happens to be a very hip and marketable practice. Everyone is trying to be more environmentally sound, from big box stores to mom and pop shops in small town United States. Reduce, reuse, and recycle are part of everyday vernacular. Being green at the end of the day is about making conscious decisions about how individuals consume and live their daily lives. As aestheticians, that means making little decisions regularly within the aesthetics practices that have a big impact on the environment. You may not realize it, but there is a good chance you are already one step ahead of the game to having a greener practice. Here are five simple ways to make an aesthetics practice greener overnight.
Use less cotton
Every facial uses tons of cotton and where does it end up? In the trash – used once and chucked. This is a horrifying practice. Keep cotton (gauze, pellon, and paper products) to a minimum. Invest in some good towels instead or use reusable cotton baby diapers (without the liner) as half of towels because they are smaller, so they take up less room in the washer, and they are super durable. Go to the baby section in a store and check them out.
Switch incandescent light bulbs to LED
This allows the spa to pay less on its electric bill and uses way less energy. The bulbs also happen to live as long as a human, so they will not need to be switched often.
Recycle
Recycle whatever and whenever possible. An empty mask jar – repurpose or recycle it. Do not forget to clean it first though. Those cardboard boxes a new handheld device came in – break them down and recycle them. Keep it out of the garbage and it is a win for everyone.
Add plants to the treatment room
They look pretty, they make people happy, and they clean the air. No light or low light? No problem – get a snake plant, angel fern, or pathos. They need barely any light at all to live happily. Just water and enjoy.
Use organic and biodynamic products
It seems like this would be a given to greening a practice but use organic and biodynamic skin care products at every chance. Commit to going green and swap out an entire line if necessary. Even if it is one product at a time, make a change to supporting companies that are healthier for clients and the environment. It can be more costly to go organic, so take baby steps and start with one product at a time. There is no need to dive in headfirst, but it will not hurt either.
Starting with these five simple steps, any spa can make an effort to be greener and have a long-lasting impact on clients and the environment.
Schreiber is a New York State licensed massage therapist, cosmetologist specializing in aesthetic science, and electrologist. With over 16 years of experience in the industry, her work has brought her everywhere from the classroom, to her certified-green spa – The Windham Spa, to the United States. Olympic Training Center and beyond. Outside of the treatment room, she is a writer, speaker, and consultant with the New York State Department of Education, leading education firms and industry magazines. Her current passion projects include treatment research and development for patients, and assisting in the development of the U.S. Paralympic Bobsled and Skeleton Team.