Most skin care professionals are all seeing many more clients with some sort of compromised barrier these days and this skin condition shows no signs of ending soon. So, how do skin care professionals approach it, and what will they need to treat this skin condition plaguing clients?

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First let’s define compromised skin and what it looks like.Compromised skin is when the skin’s barrier becomes damaged, and it is not able to function as it should.

The functions of the skin is to protect, control heat regulation, secrete, feel sensation, absorb, provide immunity, and synthesize vitamin D.

Although each of these are very importantfor healthy skin, let’s focus what is in the scope of aesthetics –protection.When the barrier is healthy, it will protect by keeping allergens, bacteria, and viruses out, while also keeping water in.

When the barrier is compromised, it cannot do either of those two functions as well as needed or wanted.

BARRIER IMPACT & HEALTH

What kinds of thingscan impact the skin barrier? 

• health

• environment
• medications
• stress
• diet and lifestyle

What ingredients can restore skin barrier health? 

Hydrating and moisture binding ingredients like hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, oat kernel oil, and glycerin all provide this support.Strengthening ingredients includeceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and squalene. Anti-inflammatory options arerosehip seed oil, hemp oil, argan oil, marine collagen, frankincense, vanilla, and rose essential oils, vitamin C, andshea butter. Soothing and calming ingredients includejojoba, frankincense, colloidal oatmeal, willow herb, and shea butter.Skin replenishing ingredients to utilize include retinol, niacinamide, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, ceramides, adenosine, and peptides.

Rebuilding the skin is a two part process – extrinsically (what is put on the skin) and intrinsically (what is put in the body.) Eating a balanced diet rich in iron, calcium, zinc, amino acids, carbohydrates, healthy fats, and vitamin B, C,and D is an important step to restoring a compromised skin barrier.Have a nutritionist in the spa’s network that practitioners can learn from and refer clients to when necessary. 

BARRIER BREAKDOWN

What kinds of ingredients can degrade or breakdown the barrier? Anything that is classified as a skin or immune irritant or toxin, including aluminum, coal tar derivatives, andcosmeceutical- grade mineral oil. Diethanolamine and triethanolamine,ethyl acetate, andtriclosan are also known toxins that contribute to barrier breakdown.

As a skin care professional growstheir knowledge of ingredients,they will learn about these and many more.Also, these and similar ingredients are still being used in cosmetics and personal care products today. It is no wonder why there are so many clients with a compromised barrier.Make this a priority and research ingredients.Know what is in the products being retailed.

REPAIR ROUTINE FOR CLIENTS

Morning

 Splash face with warm water or gently use a washcloth (no cleanser). Apply a serum likehyaluronic acid, vitamin C, or peptide cleanser. Then apply a skin-loving clean oil, followed by a

moisturizer.Finish with a proper sun protectant factor and begin makeup application if desired.

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Evening

Pre-cleanse with oil and then use a gentle cleanser with lukewarm water to rinse. Use ahyaluronic acidserum with marine collagen to cool, soothe, and increase skin hydration.

Apply two to three drops of a skin-loving oil that will protect and keep moisture in. Finish with a moisturizer that will hydrate, calm, soothe, and protect skin.

Spa treatments can also include a hydrating mask, body care, hydration, and LED light therapy.Keep it simple, keep it clean, and clients will love and return for more skin love.