Detoxification Equals Balance
Balance is the constancy in a system. A cell in balance, or homeostasis, functions normally. A cell’s day-to-day functions are accomplished through biochemical reactions that take place within the cell and naturally generate waste matter. Cells have various detoxifying and recycling systems to process and physically eliminate the unwanted waste compounds that originate from within the cell. To coordinate the cell’s immediate needs and functions, cells organize reactions into various metabolic pathways.

Accumulation
Toxins can quickly accumulate and how to get all the toxins out of a system once they are in there is far more difficult. What we put on the body, in the body, as well as factors due to the environment, lifestyle, and genetic tendencies influence the variables of the detoxification system. As the skin is constantly in contact with the elements, it is a major defense against environmental stress and a frequent route that pollutants enter the body. Benefits by ingredient intervention are possible by maximizing the capacity and breadth of the various elimination detoxification pathways.

Cutaneous Autophagy Pathway
One pathway of detoxification is called autophagy. This is cellular recycling that occurs through lysosomal machinery within the cell. The recycling units, lysosomes, trap and break down unwanted components such as damaged proteins and organelles (like mitochondria) and recycle the unwanted components into basic amino acids, enabling them to be used again.
Silab’s hydrolyzed candida saitoana extract, a purified α-glucan, boosts the fibroblast cell’s recycling system by stimulating LC3-II synthesis, thus increasing the formation of lysosomes and autophagic activity. In vivo clinical results yielded a reduced level of oxidized proteins, peroxidized lipids, reduction in the accumulation of lipofuscin aggregates, smoothed the micro-relief and restored radiance on dull/intoxicated skin. Anti-aging benefits from the clinical test showed reduced wrinkles and an evening of the skin tone between age spots on photoexposed skin.
Another ingredient that stimulates the key marker LC3 is DSM. DSM’s asparagus officinalis stem extract assists the skin’s autophagy capabilities by the same mechanism as hydrolyzed candida saitoana extract. In vitro studies from aged donors’ fibroblasts demonstrated an increase in autophagic activity and a drastically decreased rate of senescence in these cells. Ex vivo tests on irradiated human skin explants showed protection from protein oxidation and ultraviolet damage. These results from in vitro and ex vivo testing are backed by in vivo studies demonstrating a reduction in collagen loss and dermal thinning.
Day-to-day cellular function waste is typically eliminated from the body by the same enzymatic detoxification systems that protect the body from environmental toxins.

Detoxification Process Basics
The primary system that performs the detoxification task of skin cells is centered on a detoxifying Phase I, Phase II, and Phase III enzymatic reaction process. The three-phase process works to neutralize, solubilize, and transport the toxins out of the cell to the organs that eliminate the waste. Each of the three phases in the process have different biochemical requirements and respond to different signals, but must work in unison to achieve the ultimate goal of converting the unwanted compounds into an inactive, water-soluble form to be excreted from the body.
Phase I is the preparatory phase by bioactivation, enhancing the reactivity of the toxins by adding an attachment site or handle onto to the toxin for Phase II enzymes to grab onto. A large amount of reactive oxygen species is released during this first phase of the detoxification process. An excessive amount induces oxidative stress, which contributes actively to the aging process.
Phase II enzymes chemically modify the molecular structure of the toxins by grabbing onto the handles from Phase I and transforming them into non-toxic, water-soluble substances.
Phase III is the elimination transport process of the transformed water-soluble molecule out of the cell.

Finding and Maintaining Balance
If a large amount of unwanted compounds is bioactivated in Phase I, and if Phase II is not ready to accept the work of Phase I, the bioactivation of the toxic compounds can possibly be more nebulous than the original toxin. The metabolism of the products of Phase I are potentially more toxic than the original molecules, which does not present a problem if the Phase II enzymes are functioning at a rate to rapidly neutralize the Phase I products as they are formed. This, however, is not always the case and harmful metabolites may be produced faster than they can be detoxified, increasing the risk of cellular damage. This can accelerate the aging process. Many raw materials are focused on Phase II detoxification to reduce the potential of oxidative stress.
A highly-studied botanical extract, Swiss garden cress sprout/lepidium sativum sprout has a high concentration of phytonutrients, the compounds in plants known for their health-promoting properties. This Phase II ingredient by Mibelle contains phytonutrient sulforaphane, a well-known activator of the Phase II detoxification enzymes. The ingredient was shown to resist and protect the skin against environmental pollutants and intrinsic reactive molecules.
Biospectrum’s complex of bioflavonoids, brassica oleracea italalica (broccoli) extract, and aloe barbadensis leaf extract is a skin detoxifier from nature. The ingredient encourages excretion of toxins out of the body. In vitro studies demonstrated the DPPH radical scavenging while exerting an anti-stress effect against chemical stressors. In vivo studies conclude improvement of skin moisture, pore clearing, and sebum control.
A detoxifying, active complex by ProTec Ingredia is derived from three superfruit ferments: wolfberry, blueberry, and cranberry. The activities from the superfruit ferments promote activation of detoxification genes and expression of Phase II detoxification enzymes that induces up-regulation of detoxification and the antioxidant gene NQO1. The NQO1 pathway regulates detoxification enzymes and the oxidative stress response by preventing the production of radical species.
Marrubium vulgare meristem cell culture from Sederma is a multi-phase, detoxifying ingredient. Plant molecules from the ingredient enhance Phase II detoxification system enzymes, pre-activating them for on-demand activity. The skin detoxification system is maximized with immediate free radical scavenging and longer-lasting Phase II detoxification enzymes.
Greentech’s ingredient is a synergistic complex of green tea, white tea (camellia sinensis leaf extract), and red tea (aspalathus linearis leaf extract). In vitro testing indicated a protection of a variety of cells, including cultured neurons, against oxidative stress-induced cell death, inhibiting up to 50 percent of the free radicals and limiting lipidic peroxidation.
Phase III ingredient from Lucas Meyer promotes cellular detoxification, helping cells to eliminate the chemically-modified toxins out of cell, thus increasing cell longevity and preserving cellular youthfulness. Phase III elimination is a key step as it is responsible for waste material removal during the detoxifying process. Ex vivo studies were performed, including assessment of P-glycoprotein, which is a transmembrane transporter that expulses wastes out of cells and additionally helps avoid accumulation of Phase I reactive metabolites.

The skin is constantly in contact with the elements, is a major defense against environmental stress, and is a frequent route that pollutants take to enter the body. As the body’s largest organ, the skin’s contribution to the detoxification system is significant. Detoxification reactions are not only important for protection from the environment, but also for creating balance in the body. As skin care products designed to activate and improve cellular functioning are integrated, the daily detoxification system is increased to keep skin physiology balance in check.

Resources:
1. DeAnn, J.L., (1998). The detoxification enzyme systems, Altern Med Rev, 3(3):187-98.
2. Archives of Toxicology, (2014). 88(9):1681-94.
3. Experimental Dermatology, (2012). 21(5):364-9.
4. Hybertson, J.M., Gao, B., et al., (2011). Oxidative stress in health and disease: the therapeutic potential of Nrf2 activation. Molecular Aspects of Medicine, 32(4-6):234-46.

Diahne Patnode, director of research and development at YG Laboratories and expert cosmetic chemist, has over 25 years of progressive experience in formulating and developing trend-setting cosmetic products for some of the most recognized names in the industry, including Redken Laboratories, philosophy/BioMedic, and Arbonne International. After studying biochemistry at the University of Arizona, Patnode discovered the beauty industry and an insatiable curiosity for discovering the latest technological advances to create cutting-edge prestige products. Patnode holds multiple patents and as a leader in research and product development, she continues to provide insight that delivers market-leading products.