When applying any method of cosmetic eyebrow restoration, it is important to know the craft. This includes learning how to measure, choosing the color, and adding texture. Knowing these skills is important because the one facial feature that is notable in creating facial expressions is the eyebrows. When eyebrows are applied using a non-dimensional technique, they often appear to have a drawn-on or painted-on effect that can appear artificial and unrealistic. Whether applying eyebrows with a pencil, stencil, tattoo, or cake/gel product, the application makes a difference. This article is based on the cosmetic application, which is easy to apply and is a tried-and-true procedure for bald or over-tweezed eyebrows.

Measurement Guide
Start by marking the inner eye area. This can be found by using a brush handle to measure one-third, or the side of the nose. The inner corner of eye can also be used as a guideline. Next, angle from the nose toward
the outer edge of the pupil; mark the high point or arch area. Proceed to angle the brush handle outward, using the outer portion of the eye as a guideline. Mark the last point as a horizontal slant.
This measurement guide addresses where the eyebrow begins, arches, and ends. When measuring the width, hold the brush diagonally from the first to the last mark. This is where the eyebrow should start and end. Have the client raise their forehead and note the high point, as this is where the arch will be placed on an angle. Also, keep in mind the direction of natural hair growth which is normally up and slightly outward toward the ear, then dragged thinner at the outer area past the arch.
When creating the angle of the hair, choose a medium bristle, angled brush of fine quality. For the first third of the eyebrow, the section nearest to the bridge of the nose, create an upward and slightly outward stroke. For the middle section, use a brush to pull and direct the shape toward the outer portion of eyebrow. Finish with the final tail or end.

Required Tools and Products
For this tutorial, it is important to have a quality, tight-angle brush with a long handle for measuring (the hair on this brush should be firm, not coarse), a coarse eyebrow and eyelash comb/brush, and colorless eyebrow wax. The wax is used to create a second layer of skin, which adds dimension and texture. It is also necessary to have a selection of waterproof, shadow cake pigments that will be used to mimic the desired hair color.
Recommended colors include warm (ash) and cool (reddish) brown, colorless shades of black and white that can be used to lighten or darken any color, and shimmer blonde, which can lighten and add reflective qualities to the matte base shade.

Applying the Eyebrows
After measuring for eyebrow placement, use an angled brush to create the desired shape by applying a thin layer of eyebrow wax. When it comes to eyebrow wax, less is more. Next, brush on the matte base shade with the angular brush, choosing a shade that matches the desired hair color. Then apply a soft shimmer (not a frost) shadow that resembles a healthy, natural highlight to the hair. This shadow will give a light-reflective, three-dimensional appearance that looks very natural. Using the eyebrow brush, gently brush the eyebrow by using an upward and outward stroke. Be sure to practice a controlled and light hand dexterity, especially when carving strokes into the wax. Complete the eyebrow application by setting the area with a neutral, colorless setting powder.