Melatonin is a naturally-produced hormone that is secreted by the pineal gland to aid the body in its nightly sleep cycle. Although it is inherent to the body, melatonin begins to deplete with age. Often, an individual may experience insomnia due to stressors such as work-life balance, travel, and grief. Over-the-counter sleep aids like melatonin can help those who are sleep-deprived to get better-quality sleep.

During rapid eye movement (REM) sleep, the body undergoes a repair process in which it regenerates cellular structures and improves their functions. Melatonin is one of many key hormones that necessitates this nightly repair. Research shows that melatonin is a powerful antioxidant and possesses anti-inflammatory qualities. Although it has a positive impact on the whole body, only trace amounts can reach the skin systemically, due to narrower capillaries that restrict blood flow.

Therefore, topical melatonin can deliver antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound healing benefits directly to the skin. Melatonin can penetrate through the intercellular lipids located in the epidermis due to its lipophilic structure. Delivery systems such as liposomes are formulated from phospholipids. These lipid structures deliver performance ingredients more effectively because of melatonin’s compatibility with the skin’s intercellular lipids or natural moisturizing factors (NMF). Melatonin is a penetrable substance that can perform free radical scavenger duties, mainly combatting hydroxyl radicals, which are most damaging to skin.

Frequent free radical activity causes lipid peroxidation, or cell membrane damage, and eventually leads to cell destruction. The cell membrane is comprised mainly of lipids and is vulnerable to unstable, erratic free radicals. Chronic inflammation exacerbates lipid peroxidation, resulting in self-destructing enzymes that ultimately break down collagen, elastin, and glycosaminolglycans such as hyaluronic acid. Even more critical, the activity may result in the formation of cancerous lesions.

Since melatonin has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, it can combat free radical activity that would otherwise cause damage to skin. When free radicals are neutralized, the skin’s fibroblast cells improve the quality of wound healing and scar formation. Dermal structures such as collagen and elastin are guarded against cell death. This significantly improves skin density, firmness, and elasticity within the dermis. In addition, keratinocytes, produced in the stratum germinativum, benefit from melatonin’s protective capabilities. Healthy keratinocytes supply the epidermis with its defensive barrier function to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protect against irritation. Another antioxidant benefit of topical melatonin includes that it shields against ultraviolet-induced sunburn by suppressing oxidative damage.

Therefore, using melatonin in a liposome delivery system, such as in a corrective serum under a hydrator and sunscreen, would be most plausible. Professional facial treatments may include a blended mixture of antioxidants, such as COQ10, idebenone, ascorbic acid, tocopherol, pomegranate, and, of course, melatonin to be used in combination. Other modalities such as light therapy or microcurrent may be added to intensify absorption and help address other concerns of the client.

In conclusion, topical melatonin is a superior age management ingredient in skin care. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties combat free radical activity, thereby protecting skin from premature aging and possible cancer development. As skin care experts, it is necessary to understand how important antioxidants are for maintaining healthy skin.

References

Goldfaden, Gary and Robert Goldfaden. “Getting Your Beauty Sleep with Topical Melatonin.”

Life Extension Magazine, April 2010.

Kleszczynski, Konrad and Tobias Fischer. “Melatonin and human skin aging.” Dermato-

endocrinology 4, no. 3 (2012): 245-252.