Eye concerns can include early wrinkling, dark circles, and swelling. Creating effective eye area treatments is a challenge because every ingredient used must be suitable for the very sensitive skin around the eyes. For example, formulators cannot use essential oils because the vapors cause irritation and produce tears.

Skin care professionals also need to make sure that formulations have no direct contact with the eyes.
To make an effective eye area formula, companies have to address certain issues, such as boosting microcirculation, firming the eye area, providing moisture, and removing makeup.

IDEAL EYE INGREDIENTS

Tea and Coffee
Tea and coffee are natural sources of caffeine that help to bring more blood circulation to the skin, which nourishes delicate eye area tissues from the inside out. Caffeine also propels accumulated fluids away from the eye area and assists in the reduction of dark circles caused by genetic predisposition, stress, lack of sleep, and/or excessive salt intake.

It is beneficial to use natural sources of caffeine, like green tea and coffee. Whole plant extract of green tea contains an optimal amount of caffeine. It also offers a host of wonderful anti-aging properties due to a high content of free-radical fighting antioxidants and phytonutrients.

For clients who suffer from swollen eye areas, professionals can treat the area with coffee or green tea ice cubes. Simply brew strong organic green tea leaves or coffee with purified water and pour the tea or coffee into ice cube trays and freeze overnight. Massage the eye area with these cubes over eye cream to reduce swelling.

Gingko Biloba
Extract of ginkgo biloba is a known remedy to improve memory. Just as it stimulates blood circulation in the brain, it boosts microcirculation in the skin. Ginkgo biloba also supplies the fragile eye area with a wonderful blend of antioxidants.

Look for this ingredient in eye creams when making suggestions for clients with eye concerns. Professionals can also purchase them from specialty and health food stores and incorporate them into masks in their treatment room.

Natural Peptides
Some of the most powerful ingredients available to firm the eye area are natural peptides. Peptides are short chains of no more than 50 amino acids that have the ability to trigger the regeneration of proteins, like collagen and elastin.

According to Professor Vladimir Khavinson, M.D., an innovator in the field of peptides and Director of the Saint-Petersburg Institute of Bioregulation and Gerontology, "Cells constantly degrade aged proteins by breaking them down into amino acids and peptides. Some of these peptides match specific parts in the cell DNA following the lock-key principle. As a result, the peptide resumes the synthesis of the protein from which it was originally built. When the protein ages, it is fragmented into the same peptides once again. All of this forms a circular process that is vital to cell life."

Natural sources of peptides are extracted from organic substances and are less likely to cause adverse reactions, unlike peptides from synthetic sources. Natural peptides manifest visible improvements in the appearance of the eye area in a very short period of time. While some sources of peptides can be extremely expensive, marine and silk peptides are more affordable. Professionals can purchase them from specialty or health food stores and add them to masks. For example, find marine peptides marketed for use in protein shakes – just ensure they do not contain additives.

Ester Vitamin C
Most people have heard of the powerful anti-aging properties of vitamin C – it usually comes in the form of ascorbic acid that, in high concentrations, can irritate the eye area. As a result, it is recommended to use oil-soluble ester vitamin C, also known as ascorbyl palmitate, in eye care formulations. This ingredient helps reduce discolorations and brightens the eye area. Ester vitamin C also promotes collagen production.

Natural Emollients
Eye creams should have more emollients than face creams due to the lack of sebum production in the eye area. Coffee butter is a great emollient for the eye area because it is a natural source of caffeine and antioxidants. Aloe vera oil, which helps to soothe the delicate eye area, and castor oil, which has healing and antibacterial effects, are also great options.

Professionals can make their own eye balm from these oils and butters and apply it over their favorite eye cream. This balm will protect the skin and prevent moisture loss in windy, dry places.

Oils
Removing conventional eye makeup can be a challenge because it often contains synthetic waxes and dyes. Women commonly use eye makeup removers with added chemicals, but more natural options are available. A few drops of any vegetable oil on a wet cotton pad will remove even the most stubborn mascara. Castor oil is an ideal choice because it has healing and antibacterial properties and will not irritate the eye area. As a bonus, it also nourishes eyelashes and eyebrows.

Organic Salty Goat Butter
For clients with extremely sensitive eye areas who may be suffering from allergies, the application of organic salty goat butter can reduce swelling and improve hydration. This treatment works well in the morning as the salt helps reduce puffiness and the butter, which contains lactic acid, helps to hydrate and gently exfoliate the eye area. Goat butter is also a beautiful source of retinol. It contains a nice concentration of the vitamin without causing any side effects. To treat the eye area with goat butter, divide it into parts and put them in the freezer. Massage two portions with inward, circular movements. Be sure to avoid direct contact with the eyes.

Elina Fedotova is an award-winning aesthetician, formulator, CEO of Elina Organics, and president of the Association of Holistic Skin Care Practitioners. She uses holistic principles and organic ingredients from around the world, and frequently contributes educational articles to professional skin care magazines. Her edible products and skin care expertise have been featured on Good Morning America, People Magazine, Allure, and the ABC, NBC, Fox and WGN networks in Chicago. Chicago Magazine awarded her with "Best Facial of Chicago." Fedotova's products are available in skin care spas and medical offices around the country. elinaorganics.com